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OTLEY'S 

GUIDE TO THE LAKES, &c. 



The Visiters of the delightful scenery of the Lake District of Cum- 
berland and Westmorland, will derive considerable assistance and plea- 
sure, and the general reader much amusement, from a neat and per- 
spicuous description of this district, by Jonathan Otley, of Keswick.— 
The work is accompanied by an accurate small sheet Map, and the whole 
has a character of originality, not often met with in similar works. 

Monthly Magazine, July, 1823. 



THE LIBRART Of 

CONGRESS 
BERML mom 

AUG 16 194* 
liriEicfeioii 



PRINTED BY ARTHUR FOSTER, KIRKBY LONSDALE. 




KESWICTS 



' v v...ji.V',J;^-'- ■-- -•-•■■ ■ 



7 







-Engraved. byX&GJttenzies.JEdziiT 



A 

CONCISE DESCRIPTION 

OF THE 

ENGLISH LAKES, 

AND ADJACENT 

MOUNTAINS: 

WITH 

CKewral Directions to ©ourigtg ; 

OBSERVATIONS 

ON THE MINERALOGY AND GEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT 

ON METEOROLOGY ; 

THE FLOATING ISLAND IN DERWENT LAKE ; AND 

THE BLACK-LEAD MINE IN BORROWDALE; 

AND AN ACCOUNT OP AN 

EXCURSION TO THE TOP OF SKIDDAW. 



BY JONATHAN OTLEY. 
11 



THIRD EDITION. 



KESWICK: 

PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR. 

BY JOHN RICHARDSON, ROYAL EXCHANGE, LONDON 

AND ARTHUR FOSTER, KIRKBY LONSDALE. 

1827. 



BASICHE3131B.- 



.LiOs 






PREFACE. 



Before this little manual made its appearance, the 
public had been supplied with Guides to the Lakes in 
various forms ; but wholly devoted to the picturesque 
appearance of the country, in exclusion of other impor- 
tant considerations ; besides that some of them, sufficiently 
accurate at the time they were written, have been render- 
ed less so by the alterations in the roads and other im- 
provements which have since taken place. 

It was therefore suggested, that a short description of 
the several Lakes and contiguous Mountains, with suit- 
able directions to conduct the tourist through the most 
eligible paths for viewing the varied scenery, and at the 
same time affording some information on the structure 
and component materials of these interesting regions- 
would be acceptable ; and the ready sale of two editions 
has proved that the expectation was not unfounded. 

A new Map, on a somewhat enlarged scale, has been 
engraven expressly for the third edition, which is now 
offered to the public, with such improvements as have 
been judged likely to render it a more useful companion, 
without making it either more eumbrous or expensive. 




CONTENTS. 



The Lakes . . . . . 






7 


Windermere .... 






8 


Ullswater .... 






11 


Brother Water — Hawes Water 






13 


Coniston Water 






14 


Eathwaite Water 






15 


Grasmere 






16 


Rydal Water — Thirlmere 






ir 


Derwent .... 






18 


Bassenthwaite 






22 


Buttermere — Cruramock 






23 


Lowes Water 






24 


Ennerdale .... 






25 


Wast Water 






26 


The Tarns 






29 


Th e Rivers. — Derwent — Greta — Cocker— 


Ellen 




Eamont — Lowther — Eden — Petterill — Caldew 




Lune — Kent — Sprint — Mint — Brathay- 


-Ro- 




thay — Leven — Crake — Duddon — Esk— - 


■Irt— 




Mite — Bleng — Lissa — Enn — Calder 


. 


37 


The Waterfalls. — Lowdore — Barrow- 


-Scale 




Force — Airey Force — Stock Gill — Rydal 


Falls 




Dungeon Gill Skelwith Force Colwith— 




Birker— Stanley Gill— Sour Milk Gill 


. 


41 


The Mountains 






Skiddaw .... 




44 


Saddleback — Carrock Fell 


. 


50 


Helvellyn 




51 


Scawfell and the Pikes 




, 


54 



VI 



Bowfell— Gable 

Pillar — Grasmoor — Grisedale Pike 

Black Combe— Coniston Fell 

Fairfield 

Langdale Pikes 

High Street— Wansfell Pike 

Loughrigg Fell 
Bearings and Height of Mountains 

Crags 

Antiquities .... 

Stages in the Lake District 
Excursions amongst the Lakes 
General Directions 

Lancaster to Windermere 

Milnthorp to Windermere 

Ambleside 

Ambleside to Keswick 

Penrith to Ulls water 

to Hawes Water 

Carlisle to Keswick 

Keswick 

Round Derwent Lake 

Keswick to Borrowdale 

— — to Butter mere 

to Wast Water 



- to Bassenthwaite 

- to Ullswater 



Season for visiting the Lakes 
On the Geology of the Lake District 
On Meteorology 

The Floating Island in Derwent Lake 
The Black Lead Mine in Borrowdale 
Excursion to the top of Skiddaw 



DESCRIPTION 



THE ENGLISH LAKES 



THE LAKES. 



X he District of the Lakes comprehends a part of 
each of the three Counties, Cumberland, West- 
morland, and Lancashire, which form their junc- 
tion at a point upon the mountain Wrynose, near 
the road side. Lancashire is separated from 
Cumberland by the river Duddon, from West- 
morland by the stream falling into Little Lang- 
dale ; and the latter county is parted from Cum- 
berland by the mountain ridge leading from thence 
to Dunmail Raise. Windermere Lake is said to 
belong to Westmorland, at least its islands are 
claimed by that county, although the whole of its 
western and part of its eastern shores belong to 
Lancashire. Coniston and Esthwaite Lakes, with 
Blelham and the tarns of Coniston, are wholly in 
Lancashire. Grasmere, Rydal, and Hawes Wa- 
ter, with several tarns, lie in Westmorland. The 
head of Ullswater is in Westmorland, but below 

B 



8 WINDERMERE. 

Glencoin it constitutes the boundary between that 
and Cumberland. Derwent, Bassenthwaite, But- 
termere, Ennerdale, and Wast Water, are in 
Cumberland. 

Before this country became so much the resort 
of strangers, the word Lake was little known to 
the native inhabitants ; but to the ancient termi- 
nation mei-e, Water was usually superadded, as 
Windermere- Water, Grasmere- Water. 

Windermere is the largest of the English 
Lakes, being upwards of ten miles in length, mea- 
sured upon the water ; by the road on its banks 
considerably more. Its greatest breadth is about 
a mile, and depth nearly forty fathoms. Hav- 
ing given its name to an adjoining parish, it was 
found necessary to add the word " water" or 
" lake, 1 ' by way of distinction. It is situated in 
a country beautifully diversified by sloping hills, 
woods, and cultivated grounds, with lofty moun- 
tains in the distance. Its banks are adorned with 
buildings, which combine better with the scenery 
of this, than they would with that of the more 
northern lakes. A strait near the middle of the 
lake, has a public ferry-boat, on the way between 
Kendal and Hawkshead. Windermere is enriched 
by numerous islands ; but their effect is lessened 
by being grouped in a narrow part of the lake. 



WINDERMERE. 9 

On the north of the ferry is the great island, call- 
ed Belle Isle, belonging to Mr. Curwen, (on which 
he has a house.) It contains upwards of thirty 
acres, and has a gravel walk on its margin, of 
nearly two miles in circuit ; on which strangers arc 
freely permitted to walk. Besides this, are Crow- 
Holm, two Lilly of the Valley-Holms, Thompsons- 
Holm, House-Holm, Hen-Holm, Lady-Holm, 
and Rough-Holm. To the south of the Ferry 
are Berkshire-Island, Ling-Holm, Grass-Holm, 
Silver-Holm, and Blake-Holm. 

Windermere is stocked with a variety of fish, 
of which char are the most esteemed. Char be- 
ing taken by nets in the winter months, are pot- 
ted, and sent to different parts of the kingdom. 
The principal feeders of the lake are the Rothay, 
having its source in Grasmere ; and the Brathay, 
issuing from Langdale. These two rivers unite 
their streams about half a mile before entering the 
lake ; and a remarkable circumstance is, that the 
trout and char, both leaving the lake about the 
same time to deposite their spawn, separate them- 
selves into the two different rivers; the trout 
making choice of the Rothay, and the char tak- 
ing the Brathay. 

Some would like to commence their survey of 
Windermere at Newby Bridge, and have the 
scenery to unfold itself as they advance. Others 



10 WINDERMERE. 

will be more gratified by the prospect bursting 
upon them at once in full expansion, as it does 
from the elevated ground, on either of the roads 
leading from Kendal towards Bowness or Amble- 
side. From some parts of the lake, the summit 
of Helvellyn may be just seen in the distance. — 
When observed from the south of Low Wood, 
the Pikes on Scawfell (the highest land in Eng- 
land) appear to the left of Bowfell ; between which 
last and Langdale Pikes, are seen Great End, and 
Gable, guarding the pass at Sty-Head; and a peep 
at Skiddaw is obtained from the guide-post, on 
the Cartmel road a mile and a half south of Bow- 
ness. 

All the way from two miles south of Bowness 
to the head of the lake, the views are excellent, 
and every rising ground affords something new in 
the combination. About Troutbeck Bridge, the 
mountains from Coniston Old Man to Langdale 
Pikes appear to great advantage. — The view from 
the Station-house, above the Ferry, is much ad- 
mired. — A walk or a ride along the sequestered 
road from the Ferry towards Ambleside, will be 
found agreeable to the contemplative mind ; and 
during a voyage on the higher part of the lake 
(winch ought not to be omitted) a variety of both 
near and distant scenes presented to the view 
in delightful succession. And as the boat pro- 



ULLSWATER. 11 

Ceeds from the landing place at Low Wood, a 
person previously acquainted with the distant 
mountains will feel a pleasure in observing how 
the highest Pike on Scawfell seems to march forth 
from behind Bowfell ; and the Gable, from be- 
hind Langdale Pikes. 

At Newby Bridge, on the foot of the lake, is a 
small inn, where boats, post-horses, and chaise 
are kept. Another, at the Ferry on the western 
side, where a pair of post-horses may also be had. 
And at Bowness, Low Wood, and Ambleside, 
are spacious inns, furnished with every requisite 
accommodation. 

Ullswater ranks next in point of size, being 
nine miles long, but rather wanting in breadth : 
yet on account of its winding form, the dispropor- 
tion is not so much observed. It has the great- 
est average depth of any of the lakes, being in 
many places from 20 to 35 fathoms. The coun- 
try about its foot is rather tame ; but its head is 
situated among some of the most majestic moun- 
tains, which are intersected by several glens or 
small vallies ; and their sides embellished with a 
variety of native wood, and rock scenery. 

Three rocky islets ornament the upper reach of 
the lake; they are called Cherry-Holm, Wall- 
Holm, and House-Holm, the last of which, though 



VZ ULLSWATEE. 

houseless, is a fine station for viewing the sur- 
rounding scenery. — This lake abounds with trout 
which are sometimes caught of very large size ; 
here are also some char, but they are neither nu- 
merous nor of the best quality. Large shoals of 
a peculiar kind of fish are met with, called here 
the skelly ; and great quantities of eels are taken 
in the river Eamont, below Pooley Bridge, as they 
migrate from the lake in autumn. 

The only carriage road lies on the north-west 
side of the water, sometimes on a level with its 
surface and commanding an unobstructed view ; 
at other times deeply shaded in ancient woods, 
permitting only occasional glimpses of the lake ; 
but on the opposite side the pedestrian will be 
well repaid for a ramble along Placefell and BirL- 
fell ; where from different parts of the foot-path 
the views are truly picturesque ; and if he aspire 
to more extensive prospects, they may be attained 
by climbing the mountain to a certain height ; 
where the lower extremity of the lake may be seen 
over the beautiful grounds of Hallsteads. A 
wooded hill called Dunmallard stands as a centi- 
nel at the foot of the lake ; it is formed of a con- 
glomerated mass by which the water seems to be 
embanked. 

There is a comfortable inn at Pooley Bridge, 
on the foot of the lake ; and another at Patter- 



BROTHER WATER HAWES WATER. 13 

dale near its head ; both of which furnish boats 
upon the lake : and the long wanted medium of 
land conveyance is now in part supplied : horses 
and jaunting cars can be had at Pooley Bridge ; 
and a post chaise and horses at Patterdale. 

Brother Water — so called from the circum- 
stance of two brothers having been drowned to- 
gether, by the breaking of the ice — is a small lake, 
situate in that part of Patterdale called Harts- 
hope, on the road leading to Ambleside. 

Hawes Water is about three miles in length 
and half a mile in breadth ; its head is encom- 
passed by a grand assemblage of mountains, and 
its eastern side is screened by finely wooded rocks : 
the western side exhibits here and there a little 
cultivation, and a few farm houses sheltered by 
trees. At Measand, a low cultivated promontory 
projects into the lake, so as almost to divide it 
into two parts. A branch projecting from High 
Street stretches in a narrow ridge towards the 
chapel of Mardale, and has given to one part of 
the vale the name of Riggindale. Beyond this 
the valley becomes more secluded ; yet it affords 
a place of entertainment at Mardale Green. 

There are various mountain passes by which 
Hawes Water may be approached on foot, and a 



14 COXISTON WATER. 

way on horseback through Long-sleddale has been 
described, with a high degree of colouring by 
West and Housman; but, in planning an excur- 
sion, several things are to be taken into consider- 
ation ; as, what kind of conveyance the road will 
admit of, how that conveyance is to be supplied, 
and at what places refreshment may be obtained : 
there is no public house in Long-sleddale, and 
the one in Kentmere is of the smallest class ; so 
that it will generally be found most convenient, 
to visit Hawes Water from Penrith, returning 
either thither, or to Pooley Bridge, or in some 
cases to Shap. Lowther Castle, the magnificent 
seat of the Earl of Lonsdale, may also be visited 
in this route. 

Coniston Water, called in some old books 
Thurston Water, is a lake of considerable 
magnitude, being six miles in length ; but want- 
ing in that agreeable flexure of shores so condu- 
cive to the beauty of a lake. Near its foot how- 
ever, are some fine wooded, rocky promontories ; 
which from certain points add greatly to the pros- 
pect. It has two small islands, but they are placed 
too near the shore to contribute much to its im- 
portance. 

As the principal mountains lie on the western 
side, and at its head, the best views are in conse- 



ESTHWAITE WATER. 15 

quence obtained in a progress from its foot, on 
the eastern side ; or from a boat on its surface : 
but those who have leisure may be gratified by 
the variety afforded in an excursion quite round 
the lake. 

Its greatest depth is twenty-seven fathoms. It 
is well supplied with trout and char, the latter 
are larger here than in any other lake ; they are 
taken by nets in winter, and it was formerly sup- 
posed they could not be tempted by any kind of 
bait ; however, of late several have been taken by 
angling, with a hook baited in a peculiar manner 
with a minnow. 

The inn, at Waterhead, stands close on the 
margin of the lake, and furnishes parties with 
pleasure boats, and here a chaise and pair of post 
horses may also be had. 

Esthwaite Water is a small placid lake, 
nearly two miles in length, and distinguished by 
a fine swelling peninsula, which reaches far into 
the water from the western side. It is situated 
near the ancient little town of Hawkshead, in a 
beautiful open valley, which is crowned with gen- 
tle eminences, and decorated with an agreeable 
composition of houses, fields, and trees. 

A Floating Island on this lake, or rather upon 
one of its appendages, has been sometimes notic- 
b2 



16 GRASMERE. 

ed; but differing from one on Derwent Lake, 
hereafter to be described. That, rises occasion- 
ally from the bottom ; this, remains always upon 
the surface, being a piece of turfy earth, held to- 
gether by roots of grass and willows, and at some 
period forming a part of the bank against which 
it generally rests. 

From no point of view do the mountains of 
Langdale, Grasmere, and Rydal, appear in nobler 
forms, than from the side of Esthwaite Water. 

Grasmere Lake is not large but well form- 
ed ; and placed near the confines of a cultivated^ 
valley, which as well as the parish — takes the name 
of Grasmere. The island, containing about four 
acres of verdant pasture, forms a striking contrast 
to the massive wooded islands on some of the 
neighbouring lakes. It rises boldly from the wa- 
ter, in a fine swelling form ; and its smooth green 
surface, when spotted with grazing cattle, has a 
beautiful appearance. Should it, however, be 
thought wanting in trees, there is scarcely an is- 
land in Windermere or Derwent, but what could 
supply the deficiency. Most of the lakes, in or- 
der to be seen to advantage, require the progress 
to be made from the foot, towards the head of the 
lake; but Grasmere being completely encircled 
by mountains — this is not indispensable. The 



RYDAL WATER — THIRLMERE. 17 

view from Dunmail Raise was much admired by 
Mr. Gray; others have spoken highly of that from 
Townhead ; and Mr. West chose his station on 
Dearbought hill, on the opposite side. In short, 
from whatever point the approach to Grasmere is 
made, the prospect is always pleasing. 

There are two good houses for the accommo- 
dation of travellers : the Red Lion, near the 
Church ; and the Swan on the Turnpike road. 

Rydal Water is of smaller dimensions, and 
formed in a more contracted part of the valley ; 
it receives the river flowing from Grasmere lake 
after a course of about half a mile. It is orna- 
mented by two picturesque islands, and bordered 
by meadows and woody grounds, surmounted by 
rocky mountains. 

The fish in Grasmere and Rydal Waters, are 
pike, perch, (provincially called bass,) and eels, 
with a few trout. 

Thirlmere — commonly called Leathes*' Wa- 
ter, from the family to whose estate it belongs ; 
and sometimes Wythburn Water, from the 
valley in which it is partly situated — lies at the 
fbot of the " mighty Helvellyn ;" upon the high- 
est level of any of the lakes, being near 500 feet 
above the sea ; it is upwards of two miles and a 



18 DERWENT LAKE, 

half in length, and intersected by several rocky 
promontories; it is divided into an upper and 
lower lake, and over a strait a picturesque wooden 
bridge leads to Armboth House. The depth of 
this lake, which has been reported to be very 
great, has not been found to exceed eighteen fa- 
thoms. A wooded island, of half an acre, lies near 
the shore, on the lower or northern part of the 
lake ; and the surface of the water being of late 
somewhat lowered by opening its outlet, a small 
rock in the upper part has become more conspi- 
cuous. 

Travellers are commonly satisfied with a sight 
of this lake from the road ; but those who have 
leisure may obtain better views of the lower and 
finer part of the lake, from different stations in 
the grounds near Dalehead House ; and finer still 
from the other side of the water. 

Derwent Lake, near Keswick, is of the most 
agreeable proportions. In breadth it exceeds any 
of the neighbouring lakes, being near a mile and 
a half; although its length is little more than 
three miles. Lakes of greater length generally 
extend too far from that mountain scenery, which 
is so conducive to their importance ; but Derwent 
Lake appears entirely encircled ; and visitors are 
at a loss which to admire most, the broken rocky 



DERWENT LAKE. 19 

mountains of Borrowdale on the one hand, or the 
smooth flowing lines of Newlands on the other ; 
while the majestic Skiddaw closes up the view to 
the north. 

The islands are of a more proportionate size, 
and disposed at better distance than those on any 
other lake. The largest, called Lord's Island, 
contains about six acres, now entirely covered with 
wood. It is situated near the shore, on which 
account probably it was selected for the residence 
of the family of Derwentwater ; but the house 
has long been in ruins, and nothing now remains 
but the foundation. 

The Vicar's Isle, belonging to General Peachy, 
contains about five acres and a half, beautifully 
laid out in pleasure grounds, interspersed with 
a variety of trees, and crowned with a house in 
the centre. For some years it was called Pock- 
lington's Island, while it belonged to a gentleman 
of that name ; and is sometimes by way of pre- 
eminence called Derwent Isle. 

One nearer the middle of the lake is called St. 
Herbert's Isle, from being the residence of that 
holy man. According to the Venerable Bede, he 
was contemporary with St. Cuthbert, and died 
about A. D. 687. It appears that the anniversary 
of his death was by the Bishop of the diocese 
enjoined to be celebrated in religious offices 



20 DERWENT LAKE. 

upon this spot, several centuries afterward. Some 
remains of what is said to have been his cell are 
still to be seen among the trees with which the 
island is covered. Twenty years since, a small 
grotto or fishing cot was built by the late Sir 
Wilfred Lawson, of Brayton House, to whose 
successor the island now belongs. 

A smaller island, called Rampsholm, is also 
covered with wood. This and Lord's Isle — be- 
ing part of the late Lord Derwentwater's seques- 
trated estate — belong to Greenwich Hospital. 

There are other small islets; as Otter Isle, 
situated in a bay near the head of the lake, the 
views from which have been much admired. A 
piece of rock, called Tripotholm, and two others 
known by the name of Lingholms. 

Besides these permanent islands, an occasional 
one is sometimes observed, called the Floating 
Island : being a piece of earth, which at uncer- 
tain intervals of time rises from the bottom to 
the surface of the lake ; but still adhering by its 
sides to the adjacent earth, is never removed from 
its place. Within the last twenty-six years it has 
emerged seven times ; remaining upon the sur- 
face for longer or shorter periods. In a succeed- 
ing part of this work the discussion of this subject 
will be resumed at greater length. 

Another peculiarity has been attributed to this 



DERWEtfT LAKE. 21 

lake in what is called the Bottom wind : which 
has been described as an agitation of the water 
occurring when no wind can be felt on any part of 
the lake. It has been supposed to originate at 
the bottom of the water ; and some associating 
this with the last mentioned phenomenon, have 
ascribed both to those subterranean convulsions 
by which earthquakes are produced. Although 
it be admitted, that the waves are sometimes 
greater than could be reasonably expected, from 
any wind which can be perceived at the time ; 
yet it may be doubted whether they are ever 
formed when no wind is stirring : and if such a 
term as " Bottom wind" must still be retained, I 
think it ought to be referred to the bottom of the 
atmosphere, rather than the bottom of the lake. 

The depth of Derwent Lake does not in any 
part exceed fourteen fathoms : a great portion of 
it scarcely one fourth of that measure. It is 
supplied chiefly from Borrowdale, and forms a 
reservoir for the water, which in heavy rains pours 
down the steep mountains on every side; by 
which means its surface is often raised six or seven 
feet ; and in an extraordinary case has been known 
to rise a perpendicular height of eight feet, above 
its lowest water mark. At such times the mea- 
dows are overflowed, all the way between this 
lake and Bassenthwaite. Its surface being large 



J5» BASSENTHWAITE LAKE. 

in proportion to its depth, causes it to be sooner 
cooled down to the freezing point ; and it fre- 
quently affords a fine field for the skaiter. In 
January 1814, the ice attained the thickness of 
ten inches. 

The fish of this lake are trout, pike, perch, and 
eels. The trout, which are very good, are taken 
by angling, in the months of April and May ; 
the pike and perch during the whole of summer. 

It would be superfluous to enter into a descrip- 
tion or enumeration of the different views on this 
lake. Many attempts have been made to de- 
scribe them — but they must be seen to be duly 
appreciated. 

Parties navigating the lake may be landed upon 
the different islands, and also to view the cascades 
at Barrow and Lowdore : at the latter place is a 
public-house where a cannon is kept for the echo, 
which on a favourable opportunity is very fine ; 
but as Don Manuel says, " English echoes ap- 
pear to be the most expensive luxuries in which 
a traveller can indulge." 

Bassenthwaite Lake is of somewhat greater 
length than Derwent, but of less breadth, and 
without islands. Being further from the moun- 
tains, it is not viewed with the same interest as 
some other lakes. Its western side is rather too 



BUTTERMERE LAKE CRUMMOCK LAKE. 23 

uniformly wooded, the eastern has a greater breadth 
of cultivation, on which side are some fine bays 
and promontories ; but here the road recedes too 
far from the lake to exhibit it to advantage. 
However tourists, who have leisure for a ride or 
a drive of eighteen miles round this lake, may 
obtain some pleasing views ; especially from the 
foot of the lake, and from some points in Wy- 
thop woods. This lake is of less depth than 
Derwent : pike and perch are the principal fish ; 
salmon pass through it, to deposite their spawn in 
the rivers Derwent and Greta, but are seldom 
met with in the lake. 

Buttermere Lake, situated in the valley of 
that name, is nearly encompassed by superb rocky 
mountains. It is about a mile and a quarter in 
length, scarcely half a mile in breadth, and fifteen 
fathoms deep. Tourists visiting Buttermere, by 
way of Borrowdale, pass along the side of this 
lake ; those who travel in carriages generally con- 
tent themselves with the view of it from a hill 
near the village. The distance between this and 
Crummock lake, is about three quarters of a mile, 
comprising some excellent arable land. 

Crummock Lake is nearly three miles in 
length, three quarters of a mile in breadth, and 



24 LOWES WATER. 

twenty-two fathoms deep. It is situated between 
the two lofty mountains, Grasmire or Grasmoor, 
on the eastern, and Melbreak on the western side ; 
and in combination with the more distant hills, 
it affords some excellent views. It has three or 
four small islands, but they are placed too near 
the shore to add much to its beauty. The best 
general views of the lake, are from the rocky 
point on the eastern side, called the Hause ; and 
from the road between Scale Hill and Loweswater : 
and the views of the mountains, from the bosom 
of the lake> are excellent. 

Both these lakes are well stocked with trout 
and char, the latter of which are smaller in size, 
but perhaps not inferior in quality, to those of 
Windermere or Coniston. There is a comforta- 
ble inn at Buttermere, between the two lakes, and 
another at Scale Hill on the foot of Crummock ; 
at one of which places a boat is usually taken, as 
well for a survey of the scenery, as being the most 
convenient way of seeing the noted water-fall of 
Scale Force, on the opposite side of the lake. 

Lowes Water, a small lake of about a mile 
in length, has given name to the parish or cha- 
pelry in which it is situated. It differs from all 
the other lakes, in that, they generally exhibit 
the most interesting mountain scenery, in look- 



ENNERDALE LAKE. 25 

ing towards the head of the lake ; this, on the 
contrary, is more tame towards its head, while at 
its foot the mountains appear of bolder forms. It 
is not the difference between one piece of water 
and another, but the endless variety of scenery 
with which they are associated, that gives to every 
lake its peculiar character. Lowes Water, viewed 
from the end of Melbreak, exhibits a sweet rural 
landscape, the cultivated slopes being ornamented 
with neat farm houses : but taking the view in an 
opposite direction the lake makes a middle dis- 
tance to a combination of mountains scarcely to 
be equalled. 

Ennerdale Lake is about two miles and a 
half in length, and three quarters of a mile in 
breadth. It is more difficult to obtain a good view 
of this, than any other lake. The best general 
view may be had near How Hall ; but, as the 
principal mountain scenery, with part of the lake, 
is seen to advantage from the road, by which 
tourists generally pass from Wast Water to 
Lowes Water and Buttermere ; few like to ex- 
tend the journey two or three miles for any im- 
provement that can be made to the view. Pedes- 
trians, anxious to explore the inmost recesses of 
the mountains, may follow the lake to its head, 
and after passing the sequestered farm of Giller- 



26 WAST WATER. 

thwaite, continue their route four or five miles 
along the narrow dale, by the transparent stream 
of the Lisa, which is fed by the crystal springs 
issuing from the side of the mountain ; they may 
then make their way over one of the mountains, 
either by the pass called Scarf Gap, to Butter- 
mere, or the Black Sail, to Wasdale head : this 
way a horse might be taken, but it would be foun^ 
more troublesome than useful. 

This lake is well stocked with trout : here is 
also an inferior kind of char, which enter the 
river in autumn todeposite their spawn; contrary 
to the habits of those in the lakes of Buttermere 
and Crummock. There are two small public 
houses at Ennerdale Bridge, neither of which af- 
fords much accommodation to travellers. 

Wast Water is a lake full three miles in 
length and more than half a mile in breadth. Its 
depth, being lately sounded by some neighbouring 
Gentlemen, was found to be 45 fathoms ; so that its 
bottom must be about 1 5 fathoms below the level 
of the sea : and it is probably owing to its great 
depth in proportion to the extent of surface, that 
it has never been known to freeze ; as during the 
continuance of winter, the whole mass of water is 
never cooled down to its maximum density. We 
have before seen lakes situated at the feet of 



WAST WATER. 27 

mountains, yet still admitting of a road, or at least 
a path between them ; but now we are arrived at 
a lake on one side of which there is not the least 
appearance of either. The Screes* bound the 
lake on the south east, and extend from near the 
summit of the mountain quite into the water ; so 
that it cannot be passed on that side without con- 
siderable difficulty and some danger. Roads can 
be cut through the rocks or formed over morasses, 
but through these Screes the formation of a road 
could hardly be effected. 

The mountains environing Wast Water are 
lofty and majestic. Looking up the lake, Yew- 
barrow forms a fine apex ; Kirkfell pushes for- 
ward its bold front on the left ; at the head of the 
dale the pyramidical Gable appears conspicuous ; 
Lingmel comes finely in view on the right, over 
which Scawfell and the Pikes reign preeminent ? 
the Hay Cock may be seen through the lateral 
vale of Borrowdale, and the Pillar crowns the 
head of the branch called Mosedale : Middlefell, 
running along the margin of the lake on the spec- 
tator's side, and the Screes on the opposite, com- 
plete the panorama. In short, Wast Water 

* Screes a provincial term signifying a profusion of loose 
stones, the debris of the rocks above, resting upon a declivity as 
steep as is possible for them to remain ; so that the least distur- 
bance in any part communicates a motion, somewhat between 
sliding and rolling, which frequently extends to a considerable 
distance, and takes some time before quiet is restored. 



%8 WAST WATER. 

affords many peculiarities well worth visiting once, 
but not sufficient to yield that encreased degree 
of pleasure in a second and third inspection, that 
would be experienced on Derwent, Ullswater or 
Windermere. 

The fish of Wast Water are chiefly trout, with 
which it is well stored : it also contains a few char. 
Boats are kept by neighbouring gentlemen for 
the diversion of angling ; and the appearance of the 
screes from the lake is magnificent. At Nether 
Wasdale, about a mile and a half from the foot of 
the lake, there are two public houses where travel- 
lers may have refreshment for themselves and 
horses : there is no other between this and Ros- 
thwaite in Borrowdale, a distance of fourteen 
miles, one third of which is very difficult moun- 
tain road. 

The verdure in the bottom of these lakes is 
composed chiefly of Littorella lacustris. Lobelia 
dortmanna, and Isoetes lacustris. In a dry 
summer the Shoreweed, where deserted by the wa- 
ter, puts forth its long and slender stamina. The 
Gladiole spreads its recurved radical leaves upon 
the bottom, and in July shoots up its long spike of 
delicate cardinal flowers above the water: and 
the Quillwort — being one of those few plants 
which perfect their fructification under water, — 



TARNS. 29 

in winter has its leaves pulled up by water-fowl, 
to extract the seeds which lie concealed at their 
base. Various other aquatic plants are found in 
these lakes : some sheltered bays are ornamented 
with a profusion of water lilies, which with their 
broad leaves, and snow white flowers — interspers- 
ed with a few of golden yellow — richly bedeck the 
surface of the water; while the reeds and the 
bulrushes are waving over them with the wind. 



THE TARNS. 



There are numerous other receptacles of still 
water, which, being too small to merit the appel- 
lation of lakes, are called Tarns. When placed 
in a principal valley, (which however is not often 
the case,) they contribute little to its importance ; 
and being in such situations often environed 
with swampy ground, seem to represent the feeble 
remains of a once more considerable lake. But 
in a circular recess on the side of a vale, or on a 
mountain, as they are generally placed, their 
margins being well defined, they become more 
interesting. Reposing frequently at the feet of 
lofty precipices, and sometimes appearing as if 
embanked by a collection of materials excavated 



30 TARNS. 

from the basin which they occupy ; they afford 
ample room for conjecture as to their mode of for- 
mation. Being sheltered from the winds, their 
surface often exhibits the finest reflections of the 
rocks and surrounding scenery, highly pleasing 
to the eye of such as view them with regard to 
the picturesque ; but it is more agreeable to the 
wishes of the angler, to see their surface ruffled 
by the breeze. 

Tarns in the Feeders of Coniston Water. — 
Two or three pools, between the hills on the north 
of Coniston Waterhead, are called simply the 
Tarns ; while those in the western quarter have 
received the more dignified appellation of Waters. 

Levers Water, the largest, is situated in a 

wide valley, between the mountains Old Man 

and Wetherlam. Low Water, placed on the 

Old Man's side, belies its name, as it occupies the 
highest level. Their united streams, after a suc- 
cession of pretty waterfalls, pass Coniston Church 

in their way to the lake. Gates Water, [Goats 

Water,] reposes on the Old Man's western side, 
and at the foot of the precipitous Dow Crag ; 
[Dove Crag.] Besides being in common with 
the other tarns stocked with trout, it also con- 
tains some char. Its stream forms the rivulet of 
Torver. Blind Tarn, a small reservoir of wa- 



TARNS. 31 

ter without a stream, lies near the road to Sea- 

thwaite, by Walna Scar. Beacon Tarn is a 

small one, near the foot of the lake. 

Belonging to the river Duddon, is Seathwaite 
Tarn, separated from Levers Water, only by a 
narrow mountain ridge. 

Tarns appertaining to the river Kent. 

Kentmere Tarn, in the vale of Kentmere, is bor- 
dered by morass ; and Skeggles Water lies on the 
heath-clad mountain between that and Long-sled- 
dale ; they are neither of them possessed of any 
striking features. 

Tarns connected with Hawes Water. 

Small Water, rightly named, lies between Harter 
fell and High Street ; and is passed by a moun- 
tain track leading from Kentmere to Mardale, 

over the pass called Nan Bield. Blea Water, 

separated from the last by a projection of High 
Street, lies at the foot of a lofty rock called Blea 
Water Crag. Before reaching the valley of 
Mardale their two streams become united. 

Tarns in the environs of Ullswater. Hays 

Water is of more extended dimensions than most 
of those called tarns ; and is much frequented by 
anglers. The stream from it passes Low Harts- 



32 TARNS. 

hope, joining that from Brother Water near the 

foot of the latter. Angle Tarn, lying north 

of the last, upon the mountain separating Patter- 
dale from Martindale, is one of the smaller class ; 
but of a curious shape, having two rocky islets and 
a small broken peninsula. Its stream in a quick 
descent, reaches the vale about half a mile fur- 
ther down. Grisedale Tarn, one of the larger 

class, lies in the junction of the three mountains 
Helvellyn, Seatsandal, and Fairfield. The road 
over the Hause, from Grasmere to Patterdale, 
passing the tarn, is accompanied by its stream 
down the vale of Grisedale ; which unites with 

the parent valley near the Church. Red Tarn, 

also of considerable extent, containing about 
twenty acres, is upon the highest level of any of 
the mountain tarns ; being upwards of two thou- 
sand four hundred feet above the level of the sea, 
little more than six hundred feet below the sum- 
mit of Helvellyn ; from whence into it you might 

almost cast a stone. -Keppel Cove Tarn is 

posited in a singular manner, not in the bottom 
of the glen, but in a kind of recess formed on one 
side ; it is separated from Red Tarn by a narrow 
mountain ridge, which branches off from Helvel- 
lyn and is terminated by a peak called Catsty Cam, 
modernized into Catchedecam ; below which the 
two streams unite to form the brook of Glenrid- 



TARNS. 33 

ding. All these tarns afford good diversion for 
the angler ; Keppel Cove produces a bright well 
shapen trout : — those of Angle tarn are by some 
considered of superior flavour ; but when quantity 
as well as quality is taken into account, Hays 
water may perhaps be allowed the pre-eminence. 

Harrop Tarn, though but a small piece of wa- 
ter, is the principal one belonging to Thirlmere. 
It lies on the western side of Wythburn, and its 
stream, called Dob Gill, passing a few houses, 
joins the rivulet in the vale a little before it reaches 
the lake. 

Tarns in the tributary streams of Winder- 
mere. Elterwater is one of the largest of the 

Tarns ; and having given its name to a small 
hamlet in Langdale, it became necessary in speak- 
ing of the water itself, to add the word tarn by 
way of distinction. It is nearly a mile in length, 
and divided into three parts. By the sudden 
influx of water from the two Langdales, the low 
meadows on its margin are frequently overflowed, 
and rendered wet and swampy : to obviate this, 
great pains have lately been taken in opening its 
outlet ; by which means the dimensions of the 
water have been greatly contracted. And the 
fishery of trout has been nearly annihilated by the 



34 TARNS. 

introduction of that voracious fish the pike. — — 
Loughrigg Tarn is a circular piece of water of 
about a dozen acres, environed by green meadows, 
intermixed with rocky woods and cultivated 
grounds. Seldom ruffled by winds, it displays 
beautiful reflections .of farm-houses, fields, and 
trees, surmounted by rocky steeps ; and when 
taken in combination with Langdale Pikes in the 

distance, it makes an excellent picture. Little 

Langdale Tarn, in the valley of that name, is one 
whose consequence is lessened by the swampiness 

of its shores. Blea Tarn, lying on the high 

ground between the two vales of Great and Little 
Langdale, has a small sequestered farm adjoining, 
and called by its name. A view of this piece of 
water is enriched by the superb appearance of 

Langdale Pikes. Stickle Tarn, at the foot of 

Paveyark, a huge rock in connection with Lang- 
dale Pikes — is famous for the quality of its trout. 
The stream falling. into Langdale, at Millbeck, in 

a foaming cataract, may be seen at a distance. 

Codale Tarn is a small piece of water, containing 
a few perch and eels. It sends a small stream 
down a rocky channel into Easdale Tarn, which 
is one of the largest mountain tarns, seated in the 
western branch of Grasmere vale among rocky 
precipices, of which Blakerigg, or Blea Crag, is 
the principal. Its stream — from its frothy white- 



TARNS. 35 

ness called Sourmilk Gill — is a striking object 
from the road. 

Tarns tributary to Derwent Lake. A se- 
cond Blea Tarn is situated on the heathy moun- 
tain between Wythburn and Borrowdale. The 
water, after leaving it nearly two miles, is received 
by the small Tarn of Watendlath, in a circular 
valley of that name, which is not unworthy of be- 
ing visited. It is the stream from these tarns, 
which after running two miles further along a 
narrow valley, forms the famed cataract of Low- 

dore. Angle Tarn, stocked only with a few 

perch, is at the head of the stream belonging to 
the branch of Borrowdale called Langstreth. At 
the foot of Eagle Crag, this is joined by another 
stream from the branch of Greenup ; and after 
passing Stonethwaite and Rosthwaite, joins the 
Seathwaite branch a little further down the vale. 

Sprinkling Tarn, of irregular shape, reposes 

under Great End Crag ; it abounds with excel- 
lent trout ; but they are too well fed, or too wary 

to be easily tempted by the bait of the angler. 

Sty-head Tarn, in some maps called Sparkling 
Tarn, lies about three quarters of a mile below 
the last, near the road to Wasdale. The water, 
which it receives from Sprinkling Tarn, seems to 
have been deprived of its nutritive qualities ; as 
its fish are of a very inferior kind. The stream 



36 TARNS. 

running from hence towards Seathwaite, has some 

fine frothy breaks, and one grand waterfall. 

Dock Tarn, and Tarn of Leaves ; one on the east 
side of Stonethwaite, the other between Seathwaite 
and Langstreth ; are barely entitled to be men- 
tioned. 

Scales Tarn, on the east end of the mountain 
Saddleback, is an oval piece of water covering an 
area of three acres and a half, its two diameters 
being 176 and 124 yards, its depth 18 feet; and 
uninhabited by the finny tribe. Some very ex- 
aggerated descriptions of this tarn have found 
their way into the history of Cumberland and 
other publications. From its gloomy appearance, 
occasioned by being overshadowed by steep rocks, 
its depth was supposed to be very great, and it 
has been represented as the crater of an ancient 
volcano; an assumption not supported by pre- 
sent appearances. Its stream after nearly encom- 
passing Souterfell is called the Glenderamaken, 
which passing Threlkeld joins that from Thirl- 
mere to form the Greta. 

Bowscale Tarn, which empties itself into the 
Caldew, is seated in a basin singularly scooped out 
of the side of a hill. — Over Water lies to the north 
of Skiddaw, in the rise of the river Ellen. — Burt- 
ness Tarn, or Bleaberry Tarn, lies on the south- 



EIVERS. 37 

west side of Buttermere, in a recess between High 
Stile and Red Pike : its stream forms the cataract 
called Sour-milk gill. — Floutern Tarn serves as a 
landmark in passing between Buttermere and En- 
nerdale ; as Burnmoor Tarn does between Was- 
dale-head and Eskdale. — Devoke Water, connect- 
ed with the Esk near Ravenglass, is famous fox 
the excellence of its trout ; and as a place of resort 
for water fowls. 

There are some other small tarns, of little 
consequence in themselves, and seldom seen by 
strangers ; therefore they scarcely require to be 
noticed. Such are Eel Tarn, Stony Tarn, and 
Blea Tarn, in Eskdale, and the two tarns above 
Bowderdale in the Wasdale mountains. 



THE RIVERS. 



The Rivers of this district are not of large di- 
mensions ; but issuing from rocky mountains and 
running in pebbly channels, the water they con- 
tain is remarkable for its clearness and purity. 
From the central cluster of mountains about Bow- 
fell, Scawfell, and Gable, many of them derive 
their origin ; others have their source in the neigh- 
bourhood of Helvellyn and High Street. 



38 " RIVERS. 

A Syke in provincial dialect is a stream of the 
smallest class ; as Heron-Syke near Burton — 
dividing the counties of Westmorland and Lan- 
cashire. 

A Gill (sometimes wrote Ghyll to ensure the 
hard sound of the G) is a mountain stream confined 
between steep banks, and running in a rapid 
descent. These Gills are instrumental in enriching 
the vallies by the spoil of the mountains ; they 
contribute to the formation of a plot of superior 
land on the side of a valley ; or sometimes a low 
promontory sweeping with a bold curve into a lake. 

Beck is a term used promiscuously for river, 
rivulet or brook ; it signifies a stream in the bottom 
of a vale, and to which the gills are tributary. 
These becks receive a name from some dale, hamlet 
or remarkable place which they pass, and in their 
course the appellation is frequently changed ; for 
instance, a stream running north from Bowfell, 
and receiving several augmentations in its progress 
down Borrowdale is called Langstreth beck ; then 
Stonethwaite beck, Rosthwaite beck, and Grange 
beck till it enters Derwent lake, thence it has the 
name of Derwent, to Workington, where it falls 
into the sea. 

The river issuing from Thirlmere commonly 
called St. John's beck has formerly been called the 
Bure ; the one from Mungrisdale by Threlkeld 
Genderamakin ; after their junction it takes the 



RIVERS. 89 

name of Greta and receives the Glenderaferra 
from between Skiddaw and Saddleback ; passing 
Keswick it joins the Derwent, shortly after that 
river leaves the lake. In heavy rains the Greta 
sometimes rises so suddenly that it inverts the 
stream of the Derwent, so that the lake is for a 
short time literally filled from all quarters. The 
water issuing from Buttermere, Crummock and 
Lowes Water forms the river Cocker, which falls 
into the Derwent at the town named from this cir- 
cumstance Cockermouth. 

The Ellen rises in the mountains north of Skid- 
daw, and passing Uldale, Ireby and Ellenborough 
falls into the sea at Maryport. 

The several becks of Patterdale unite in Ulls- 
water, the river issuing from thence is called the 
Eamont ; it receives the Lowther from Hawes 
Water, Swindale and Wetsleddale near Brougham 
Castle, and is afterwards absorbed in the Eden, 
which enters the Solway Firth a little below Car- 
lisle, having first received the Petterill which rises 
near Greystoke, and the Caldew from the east side 
of Skiddaw. 

Two small streams crossing the road between 
Kendal and Shap fall into the Lune — >which at 
Kirkby Lonsdale is a fine river, and crossed by a 
lofty antique bridge ; it is navigable at Lancaster, 
a little below which place it falls into the sea. 
c<2 



40 RIVERS. 

The Kent rising in Kentmere, receives the 
Sprint from Longsleddale and the Mint from 
Bannisdale. It washes the skirts of Kendal, and 
enters the sea near Milnthorp, where it is joined 
by the Belo. 

The various becks of Langdale combine to form 
the Brathay, and those of Grasmere the Rothay, 
which unite in Windermere : after leaving which 
it is the Leven, and joins the Crake from Coniston 
upon the sands below Penny Bridge. 

The Duddon rises on the south of Bowfell and 
separates Cumberland from Lancashire. Unre- 
tarded by any lake, it pursues its course in a pretty 
transparent stream and enters the sea on the north 
of the Isle of Walney. 

The Esk rising on the east of Scawfell, retains 
its name till it enters the sea at Ravenglass ; 
where the Irt from Wasdale, and the Mite from 
Miterdale also join upon the sands. The Bleng 
passing Gosforth falls into the Irt above Santon 
Bridge. 

The water flowing from the north side of Gable 
has a long meandering stream down Ennerdale ; it 
is called the Lissa till it enters the lake ; after- 
wards it is the Enn till it falls into the sea half 

way between Ravenglass and St. Bees. The 

C alder rising in Copeland forest, enters the sea 
near the same place. 



( 41 ) 



THE WATERFALLS. 

Lowdore Cascade constitutes one of the most 
magnificent scenes among the Lakes. It is a very 
considerable stream, rushing through an immense 
chasm, and bounding with great fury over and 
among the huge blocks of stone, with which the 
channel is filled. To the left, the perpendicular 
Gowder Crag, near five hundred feet high, towers 
proudly pre-eminent ; while from the fissures of 
Shepherd's Crag on the right, the oak, ash, birch, 
holly, and wild-rose, hang in wanton luxuriance. 

Barrow Cascade, two miles from Keswick, 
has an upper and lower fall, more perpendicular 
than that of Lowdore, and exhibits to advantage 
a smaller quantity of water. From the top of the 
fall the lake and vale are seen in fine perspective. 

Scale Force near Buttermere, is the deepest 
in all the region of the lakes : it is said to fall at 
once one hundred and fifty-six feet, besides a 
smaller fall below. The water is precipitated into a 
tremendous chasm, between two mural rocks of 
sienite, beautifully overhung with trees which have 
fixed their roots in the crevices ; the sides clad 
with a profusion of plants which glitter with the 
spray of the fall. Visiters generally enter from 



42 WATERFALLS. 

below, into this chasm, where the air, filled with 
moisture and shaded from the sun, feels cool and 
damp as in a cellar. Passing the lower, they may 
proceed towards the foot of the principal fall ; till 
the more copious sprinkling of the spray compels 
them to retrace their steps. 

Airey Force, on Ullswater, is concealed by 
ancient trees, in a deep glen in Gowbarrow Park. 
The water, compressed between two cheeks of 
rock, rushes forth with great violence ; and dash- 
ing from rock to rock, forms a spray, which, with 
the sun in a favourable direction, exhibits all the 
colours of the rainbow. 

Stock Gill Force, at Ambleside, is a combi- 
nation of four falls in one ; the water is divided 
into two streams, and after a moment's rest in the 
middle of the rock, is finally precipitated into the 
deep, shaded channel below. 

Rydal Waterfalls — the upper of which is 
a considerable cascade ; pouring out its water, first 
in a contracted stream, down a perpendicular rock ; 
and then, in a broader sheet, it dashes into a deep 
stony channel. The lower fall, being near the 
house, forms a beautiful garden scene. 



WATERFALLS. 43 

Dungeon Gill is a stream issuing between 
the two Pikes of Langdale. The water falls 
into an awful chasm, with overhanging sides of 
rock, between which, a large block of stone is 
impended like the key-stone of an arch. 

The Force above Skelwith Bridge, has the 
greatest quantity of water of any amongst the 
lakes. When the river is full it makes a thunder- 
ing noise ; and is seen to most advantage from 
the Lancashire side. 

Colwith Force in Little Langdale — Birker 
Force, and Stanley Gill in Eskdale — may be 
thought worthy of notice. 

We have Sour Milk* Gill at Buttermere — 
Sour-Milk Gill in Grasmere — and Sour-Milk 
Gill near the Black-lead mine — and Taylor Gill, 
a little further on. 

The above enumerated, are some of the most 
noted of the falls: but tracing the mountain 
streams, into their deep recesses, they present an 
inexhaustible variety: smaller indeed, but fre- 
quently of very interesting features. 

• From its frothy whiteness resembling buttermilk from the 
churn. 



( U ) 

THE MOUNTAINS. 

Skiddaw. — A view of the country, from at 
least one of the high mountains with which this 
country abounds, is considered as forming part of 
the tour, by those who can muster strength and 
resolution for the undertaking ; and for this pur- 
pose Skiddaw is, on several accounts, generally 
selected. It is nearest to the station at Keswick, 
most easy of access, (as ladies may ride on horse- 
back to the very summit,) and standing in some 
measure detached, the view, especially to the 
north and west, is less intercepted by other moun- 
tains. 

An extensive prospect being the principal 
motive for climbing a mountain, it is a question 
frequently asked, which is the best time of day 
for going up Skiddaw ? It is not easy to give a 
precise answer to this question: — The morning 
is often recommended ; and generally, the sooner 
you are there after the sun has shone out and the 
cloud left the mountain, the better. It is a griev- 
ous, though not an uncommon circumstance, to 
be enveloped in a cloud, which seems to be con- 
tinually passing on, yet never leaves the moun- 
tain during the time appropriated for the stay ; 
but those who are fortunate enough to be upon 
the summit at the very time of the cloud's depar- 



SKIDDAW. 45 

ture, will experience a gratification of no common 
kind — when, like the rising of the curtain in a 
theatre, the country in a moment bursts upon the 
eye. 

It will always be better to seize a favourable 
opportunity, than to fix any certain time for the 
undertaking. A starry night is apt to lead to the 
expectation of a fine morning for the excursion ; 
and indeed very early in such a morning the view 
of the surrounding mountains is often grandly 
displayed ; but, during a clear, cold night, too 
much vapour is generally precipitated from the 
higher into the lower parts of the atmosphere ; in 
consequence of which, the air in the vallies, and 
more particularly over the sea, appears thick and 
hazy. After a succession of dry and hot days, 
the air is seldom favourable. But, between show- 
ers, or when clouds prevail, (provided they are 
above the altitude of the mountains,) the distant 
objects are frequently most distinctly seen. Some- 
times when clouds have formed below the summit, 
the country as viewed from above, resembles a 
sea of mist ; a few of the highest peaks having 
the appearance of islands, on which the sun seems 
to shine with unusual splendour. To such as have 
frequently beheld it under other circumstances, 
this may be considered a magnificent spectacle ; 
but a stranger will naturally wish to see the 



46 SKIDDAW. 

features of the country more completely developed. 

It is only by those who have been accustomed 
to such sights, that the value of a fine day for 
the purpose, can be duly estimated. Some will 
look with wonder and delight, upon what others 
will deem a very indifferent prospect ; and many 
are not satisfied with the most favourable state of 
the atmosphere, because however clear and ex- 
tensive the prospect may be, still so much more 
falls under the eye than it is able clearly to dis- 
tinguish. A telescope is of less use here than is 
generally imagined. In the hands of a person 
previously acquainted with the country, it may 
assist in the recognition of a particular building 
or object : further than this, it can render little 
service ; when the air is thick and hazy, it can- 
not dispel the vapour ; and when clear, the eye 
has too large a field to range over, and either the 
cold air or want of time prevents the contempla- 
tion of individual objects. 

The exhibition from Skiddaw comprehends the 
principal part of Cumberland — the coast from 
St. Bees' Head to the head of Solway Frith, with 
its several bays and promontories — more distant, 
the Isle of Man, and a considerable portion of the 
southern part of Scotland. The summit of In- 
gleborough in Yorkshire, is just seen over the 
range of hills bounding the head of Ullswater ; 



SKIDDAW. 47 

and a glimpse of the sea, near Lancaster, through 
the gap of Dunmail Raise. Derwent and Bas- 
senthwaite are the only lakes seen, and but one 
of these from the summit. Numerous objects 
visible from Skiddaw are particularized in Mr. 
Green's large work ; but, as few ascend the moun- 
tain without a guide, they are best pointed out as 
they present themselves, and as the state of the 
atmosphere renders them discernible. The value 
of a prospect of this kind, is not found in strain- 
ing the eye to see a something that the imagina- 
tion may convert into either the Irish mountains, 
or a fog-bank — a distant gleam of sunshine, or 
the reflection from the German ocean — a speck of 
condensed vapour, or a ship on the glittering sea : 
it lies rather in beholding a country richly varie- 
gated, with fields of corn fit for the sickle — mea- 
dows, green as an emerald — hills, clad with purple 
heath — lakes, with winding shores, and beautiful 
islands — rivers shining like silver, as they shape 
their serpentine courses towards the sea; — and 
in tracing the effects of light and shade upon 
mountains rising behind mountains in every 
imaginable diversity of form : in short, it consists 
in viewing such objects as can be distinctly known 
and properly appreciated. 

The views from the summits of some of the 
neighbouring mountains, may rival, or (in the 



48 SKIDDAW. 

opinion of some) exceed in grandeur the view 
from the summit of this ; but in no other ascent, 
are the prospects equalled, which unfold them- 
selves in the ascent of Skiddaw, when overlook- 
ing the lake and vale of Derwent, with the Bor- 
rowdale and Newlands mountains. 

A portion of ground, connected with this moun- 
tain on the north and east, consisting of inferior 
elevations and heathy ground, is generally over- 
looked as uninteresting ; though in fact it is quite 
the reverse. It is interesting to the geologist, as 
shewing the granite rock, and its j unction with 
the slate; — to the mineralogist, as containing 
veins of lead and copper, also molybdena, tung- 
sten, apatite, and some other scarce and curious 
minerals ; — it is interesting to the sportsman, as 
affording the best grouse shooting in the neigh- 
bourhood; — and to the shepherd, as affording 
excellent pasturage for his flocks. 

Some have imagined, that on these heights a 
difficulty of breathing would be the consequence 
of a diminished pressure of the atmosphere ; ex- 
perience, however, warrants no such conclusion. 

By a cloud's passing before the sun the thermo- 
meter is more suddenly affected here than in a val- 
ley ; and the air, (especially when clouds are upon or 
near the summit,) feels colder than the thermo- 
meter would seem to indicate : — this may be owing 



SKIDDAW. 



49 



partly to the previous degree of heat acquired by 
the exertion ; and partly to the humidity of the 
air and the current mostly prevailing, by which 
the heat evolved by the body is more rapidly dis- 
sipated from the clothing. 

Amongst the various mountain plants observed 
in the ascent, are the different species of Lycopo- 
dium and Vaccinium, the Erica vulgaris and 
Empetrum nigrum; and on the summit the 
Salico herbacea peeps forth among the stones. — 
The rock is chiefly a dark coloured clay-slate, in 
which are discovered small imbedded crystals of 
chiastolite — in some parts of the mountain this 
mineral is more abundant. 

The heigKt of Skiddaw, as calculated by Col. 
Mudge, is 3022 feet above the level of the sea. 
In September 1817, I assisted Mr. Greatorex in 
the laborious process of measuring its height, 
with a spirit level and perpendicular staves : the 
result was 2808 feet above the level of Derwent 
Lake. The mean of five different trials with the 
barometer, in 1809, 1811, 1813, 1817, and 1820, 
was 2800 feet above the lake, which (according 
to the calculation of the late Mr. Crosthwaite) 
is 228 feet above the level of the sea. 

The distance from Keswick to the top of Skiddaw, 
by the different windings of the road, is nearly six 
miles. 



50 SADDLEBACK CABBOCK FELL. 

Saddleback — being at a greater distance from 
the station at Keswick than Skiddaw, of some- 
what inferior elevation, and the ascent not quite 
so easy — is seldom visited by strangers. It is 
better situated than Skiddaw for a view towards 
the south, and also of the neighbourhood of Low- 
ther and Penrith ; but the western view is greatly 
intercepted. — It has been called Threlkeld Fell, 
and sometimes Blencrater, or Blenk-arthur ; and 
it is from its form, as seen from the vicinity of 
Penrith, that it has received the name of Saddle- 
back. Its height is 2787 feet, and its rock is a 
primitive clay slate, similar to that of Skiddaw. 
In walking along the ridge it is worth while to 
notice, how the southern side is formed into a 
series of deep ravines and rocky projections ; while 
to the north, it descends in a smooth grassy slope. 
And deeply below a rocky precipice on its eastern 
end, a small tarn is singularly placed ; a little be- 
yond which great preparations are now making 
for the working of a vein of lead ore. 

Caerock Fell makes one of the flanks of that 
mountain group, whereof Skiddaw forms the crown. 
It is upwards of 2000 feet in height ; and shews 
a double pointed summit, on which a space ap- 
pears to have been once inclosed by a wall. Its 
basis is a crystalline rock composed of a curious 



HELVELLYN. 51 

variety of materials; and in its neighbourhood 
are veins of lead and copper, with other mineral 
substances highly interesting to the mineralogist 
and geologist. 

Helvellyn. — Different portions of this moun- 
tain have been known by different names, and it 
is to one of these portions that the name of Hel- 
vellyn has originally been given. Latterly how- 
ever the word has been used in a more extended 
sense ; and it is to the highest point of the moun- 
tain that travellers are now conducted as the 
summit of Helvellyn ; although it was formerly 
known by another name. And the peak which 
was anciently called Helvellyn Man,* lies near 
half a mile to the northward, and is now called 
the Lower Man. — Helvellyn is most conveniently 
ascended from the public-house at Wythburn, 
half way between Ambleside and Keswick, where 
the necessary guides may be had. The ascent is 
so steep that horses are never made use of; but 
to an active person on foot it presents no great 
difficulty. The views in the ascent are not to 
be compared to those obtained in the ascent of 
Skiddaw ; but from the summit, on a favourable 
day, they cannot fail to be gratifying. Moun- 

* Man is the provincial term for one of those rude obelisks 
or piles of stones, which are commonly built by the country 
people upon the summits of remarkable hills. 



52 HELVELLYN. 

tains, vallies, and lakes, stretched out before you 
in all their varied forms ; while here and there the 
view is interrupted by bold projections of the hill 
on which you are stationed. A great part of 
UUswater and two smaller portions of AVinder- 
mere may be seen. Esthwaite and Coniston Lakes 
are shewn in full perspective ; and, beyond them, 
the deeply indented bays of the Lancashire coast. 
Several mountain tarns are also visible from hence ; 
the one named Red Tarn appears under the eye, 
at the depth of little more than two hundred yards. 
It is environed on the right by a singular ridge 
of rock called Striding Edge ; and on the left by 
Swirrel Edge, crested by Catchedecam; beyond 
which lies Keppel Cove Tarn. All the principal 
mountains of the district can be distinctly enu- 
merated; and between their summits in several 
places may be observed a glimpse of the distant 
sea. The Isle of Man seems elevated between 
the mountains Gable and the Pillar; and to the 
right and left of Skiddaw, appear the Scottish 
mountains. The cultivated country about Pen- 
rith is terminated by the lofty Crossfell, to the 
right of which are the mountains separating 
Westmorland from Durham and Yorkshire ; and 
further still to the right the crowned-topped 
Ingleborough stands conspicuous. 

Helvellyn may be ascended from Patterdale; 



HELVELLYN. 53 

but it would yield the most interesting variety 
to begin the ascent between the fifth and sixth 
mile from Keswick, and finish the descent at 
Grasmere: or the reverse. From Fisher Place, 
leaving Brotto Gill on the left, some pleasing 
waterfalls are seen; with views of Thirlmere and 
Bassenthwaite Lakes ; by pursuing the range of 
summits, a fine succession of views of the vale of 
Patterdale is obtained; and in the descent the 
lake and vale of Grasmere expand before us. 

Some have extended their excursion from this 
mountain over Fairfield to Ambleside ; but after 
descending so low as Grisedale tarn, a second 
ascent will mostly be thought too fatiguing. By 
long continued exertion the mind as well as the 
body becomes enervated and loses its relish. I 
have known a gentleman, who in passing through 
Borrowdale in a morning, would not neglect the 
most trifling object ; yet, in the latter part of the 
same day, he would pass some of the most inter- 
esting scenes on Wast Water, without any other 
inquiry than " How far is it to the inn ?" 

The height of Helvellyn, according to Mudge, 
is 3055 feet : I have called it 3070. On the 
western side, 300 feet perpendicular below the 
summit, is a spring called Brownrigg Well, where 
the water issues in all seasons in a copious stream ; 
its temperature in the summer months, is from 



54 SCAWFELL AXD THE PIKES. 

40° to 42°. All the eastern side of the principal 
ridge is a series of rocky precipices ; while the 
western exhibits a smooth easy slope, producing 
however (except moss) but little vegetation. The 
rock on the summit is of a grey colour, and a 
coarse slaty structure. That of the lower part is 
more porphyritie, with a dark coloured base and 
small white crystals ; and between these lies a 
more compact rock, which, from its appearance, 
may be called hornstone. 

. Scawfell and the Pikes. — Several lofty 
peaks, upon that central group of mountains from 
which the vallies of Borrowdale, Langdale, Esk- 
dale and Wasdale may be said to diverge are 
included in Donald's map of Cumberland (from 
which succeeding maps of the county have been 
in a great measure copied) under the general 
name of " Sea Fell." And the two most eminent 
of these points are called in the Trigonometrical 
Survey " Sea-Fell highest top' 1 and " Sea-Fell 
lower top." These authorities might be deemed 
sufficient to establish a name ; but the shepherds 
of Wasdale head who are best acquainted with 
the mountains, contend that Scawfell extends no 
farther towards the north-east than the deep chasm 
called Mickle Door, which divides the two prin- 
cipal points ; and the highest point, or that nearer 
Borrowdale, is by them called simply " The Pikes." 



SCAWFELL AND THE PIKES. 55 

A trifling misnomer like this may be thought of 
little consequence, and in a mountain like Skiddaw 
or Helvellyn, where from one peak to another is 
but a pleasant walk, it would not signify much ; 
but here the passage between the two points is 
attended with considerable difficulty, although 
they are not more than three quarters of a mile 
asunder; and to a stranger wishing to ascend one 
of these elevations, it becomes of importance to 
make his inquiries intelligible to those from whom 
he may seek information. 

In the published account of the Trigonometri- 
cal Survey, the altitude of the higher point is 
stated to be 3166, the lower 3092 feet above the 
level of the sea ; making a difference of 74 feet. 
Without pretending to determine whether the one 
has been rated a few feet too high, or the other a 
few feet too low, I have ventured to call the one 
3160, the other 3100, making a difference of only 
60 feet; which from observations made between 
the two points, I am convinced is rather in ex- 
cess than otherwise. 

Both these points afford extensive views, as 
well of the surrounding mountains as of a consi- 
derable part of the Lancashire and Cumberland 
coasts, the Isle of Man, and a portion of the coast 
of Scotland, and on a very favourable day the 
mountains of North Wales may be seen on the 
right of Black Combe. That part which is called 



56 SCAWFELL AND THE PIKES. 

The Pikes has a view of Windermere and Der- 
went Lake, and upon the whole affords the more 
complete panorama ; besides the gratification of 
being upon the highest ground in England. 
It also rises to the greatest height from the valley 
immediately at its base ; being three thousand 
feet above Wastwater. The highest point, or 
Pike, may be most conveniently ascended from 
Borrowdale, the lower from Wasdale head, or 
Eskdale ; but the distance from any house of en- 
tertainment, the rugged ground, and the danger 
of being caught by a cloud in such a situation, 
altogether conspire against its being visited by any 
other than hardy pedestrians. And strangers are 
cautioned, so to calculate their time, as not to run 
the risk of being benighted on such places ; — to 
be caught in a cloud is disagreeable ; — cloud and 
night would be terrible. Very little vegetation is 
here to be seen, rocks and large blocks of stone 
piled one upon another are the principal features. 
It seems that the action by which these blocks 
were separated from their native rock, has long 
since ceased to operate, as their weather-worn sur- 
faces prove that they have remained in their 
present state for ages. The rock is formed in layers 
of finer and coarser materials, and long exposure 
gives to the surface a ribbed or furrowed appear- 
ance. Great End, the north-eastern limit of the 



BOWFELL GABLE. 57 

range, presents its broad rocky front towards Kes- 
wick. The rain water falling upon it, runs into 
Eskdale, Wasdale, and Borrowdale. Part of this 
rock is as compact as flint, and on its surface 
Lichen geographicus appears in peculiar beauty. 

Bowfell rises proudly in view from Winder- 
mere and Esthwaite Lakes. It is 2911 feet in 
height, and sheds the rain water into Borrowdale, 
Langdale, Ulpha, and Eskdale. It is easiest of 
access from Langdale, but may be reached from 
any of the above mentioned vales. 

Gable, or Great Gavel — so called from its 
shape — is a fine object as viewed from Wasdale, 
from Ennerdale, or from Crummock Lake ; it is 
also seen from Windermere. It is 2925 feet in 
height, and is remarkable for a well of pure water 
on the very summit. This is not a spring issuing 
in the common way out of the earth ; but is sup- 
plied immediately from the atmosphere, in the 
shape of rains and dews. It is a triangular recep- 
tacle in the rock, six inches deep, and capable of 
holding about three gallons ; and by containing 
water in the driest seasons, shews how slight a 
degree of evaporation is carried on at this altitude. 
The rock of Gable is a very hard, compact, dark 
coloured stone, with garnets imbedded. 



58 PILLAR GRASM00R GRISEDALE PIKE. 

The Pillar — a mountain rivalling the Gable 
in height — is situated between the vale of Enner- 
dale and that branch of Wasdale head called Mose- 
dale. It presents towards Ennerdale one of the 
grandest rocky fronts any where to be met with ; 
and has derived its name from a projecting rock 
on this side ; which was originally called the Pillar 
Stone, and had been considered as inaccessible, 
till an adventurous shepherd reached its summit in 
1826. The rock is a kind of greenstone, more 
porphyritic than that of Gable. 

Grasmoor is a bold rocky mountain on the 
eastern side of Crummock Lake ; it is sometimes 
called Grasmire, a name in no wise corresponding 
with its appearance and productions, it rises to 
the height of 2756 feet with a rounded summit, 
and affords a good bird's-eye view of the Lakes of 
Buttermere, Crummock and Loweswater, with 
their adjacent mountains ; and a considerable 
portion of the Cumberland coast. 

Grisedale Pike rises to a lofty apex, as its 
name implies ; it is 2580 feet in height and is well 
situated for a view of the vale of Keswick to the 
east, and a considerable part of the county of 
Cumberland, with the sea the Isle of Man and 
the mountains of Galloway to the west and north. 



BLACK COMB CONISTON FELL. 59 

Black Combe, or Coom, stands near the south- 
ern boundary of Cumberland. Forming the ex- 
tremity of the mountain chain, it may be seen at 
a great distance ; and is a fine station both for 
land and sea prospects. In 1808, it was made 
one of Colonel Mudge's stations, in the process 
of the Trigonometrical survey. He calculated 
its height to be 1919 feet above the level of the 
sea. Its basis is a rock of clay-slate similar to 
that of Skiddaw ; and it is covered by a large 
tract of peat earth, which is cut for fuel and 
brought down on different sides of the mountain. 

Coniston Fell. — The highest point of Coni- 
ston Fell, is called The Old Man, from the 
pile of stones erected on its summit. It is 2577 
feet in height, and has a F good view of the rocky 
mountains, Scawfell and Bowfell, and at a dis- 
tance, the highest point of Skiddaw. Coniston 
Lake is seen in full proportion, with a part of Win- 
dermere. Two tarns appear upon the mountain, 
the smaller, called Low Water, although on the 
higher level ; the larger, Levers Water ; and on 
the western side of the hill, but not seen from the 
summit, is Gates Water, lying at the foot of the 
precipitous Dow Crag. Standing open to the 
south, unincumbered by other mountains, the Old 
Man commands a complete view of all the fine 



60 FAIRFIELD. 

bays and estuaries of the Lancashire, and part of 
the Cumberland coast — the Isles of Walney and 
Man — and, in the direction of the river Duddon, 
on a favourable day, may be distinguished Snow- 
don, and its neighbouring mountains. 

Beginning to ascend at the Black Bull near 
Coniston Church, you have on your left a stream 
abounding in pretty waterfalls, running parallel with 
the road. The copper mines near Levers Water, 
and slate quarries between Low Water and the 
summit, can be seen ; and the descent may be 
made at choice more in front of the mountain. 
Those who admire a lengthened mountain excur- 
sion, may begin the ascent at Fellfoot, in Little 
Langdale, and surmounting the Carrs [scarrs] and 
the OMMan, descend to Coniston. 

The summit of the hill, as well as the quarries 
on its sides, is of a fine, pale blue, roofing slate. 
A considerable portion of the mountain is formed 
of a very hard rock, which some have denomina- 
ted Petro-silex ; and between this and Coniston 
Church, on the western side of the stream, the 
commencement of the darker coloured slate may 
be observed. 

Fairfield — 2950 feet above the level of 
the sea — makes a fine mountain excursion from 
Ambleside, commencing the ascent at Rydal, en- 



LANGDALE PIKES. 61 

circling Rydal head, and returning to Ambleside 
by Nook end. Lakes and Tarns to the number 
of ten, may be enumerated in this excursion ; viz : 
Ullswater, Windermere, Esthwaite, Coniston, 
Grasmere, and Rydal lakes ; and Elterwater, 
Blelham, Easdale, and Grisedale tarns : oftener 
than once, may eight of them be reckoned from 
one station. Here is likewise a good view of the 
different creeks and inlets of the sea towards Lan- 
caster and Ulverston. 

Langdale Pikes,* called Pike of Stickle, and 
Harrison Stickle, are by their peculiar form dis- 
tinguished at a great distance. They afford some 
good views to the south east ; but being encom- 
passed on other sides by higher mountains, the 
prospect is somewhat limited. Harrison Stickle 
the higher, is 2400 feet above the level of the 
sea: it is more easily ascended, and has the 
better prospect towards Rydal and Ambleside; 
but the Pike of Stickle has the advantage of 
catching through an opening in the hills, a view of 
Bassenthwaite lake, and the foot of Skiddaw ; from 
which Harrison Stickle is by higher grounds ex- 
cluded. 



* These Pikes should always be distinguished from the Pikes 
of Wasdale Head, by some called the Pikes of Scawfell. 



62 HIGHSTKEET WAXSFELL PIKE. 

Highstreet may have taken its name from 
an ancient road which now appears as a broad 
green path over this mountain. It is probably 
the highest road ever formed in England, being 
2700 feet above the level of the sea. — On account 
of its central situation between the vales of Patter- 
dale, Martindale, Mardale, Kentmere, and Trout- 
beck, and being connected with others at a little 
distance ; an annual meeting was formerly held 
here, when the shepherds of the several vales re- 
ciprocally communicated intelligence of such sheep 
as might have strayed beyond their proper bounds ; 
and to enliven the meeting, races and other diver- 
sions were instituted; ale and cakes being supplied 
from the neighbouring villages. — Highstreet af- 
fords some good prospects, but being at a distance 
from any place of entertainment it is seldom 
visited by strangers. Pedestrians fond of moun- 
tain rambles might, with a guide, pass over it from 
Patterdale into Troutbeck, or Kentmere, or into 
Mardale, and thence by Hawes Water to Bamp- 
ton, from whence are roads to Pooley Bridge, 
Lowther, Penrith, and Shap. 

Waxsfell Pike rises to the height of 1500 
feet above Windermere Lake — a moderate eleva- 
tion compared with many of its neighbours ; yet 
it is not deficient in prospects. It aifords excel- 



LOUGHRIGG FELL. 03 

lent views of Windermere, Grasmere, and Rydal 
lakes ; the towns of Ambleside and Hawkshead, 
with the beautifully diversified scenery in the 
neighbourhood. Further distant are seen the 
sands of Milnthorp, Lancaster, and Ulverston, 
with the majestic mountains of Coniston and 
Langdale. In a walk from the pike, towards 
Kirkstone, it is curious to observe, Great Gable 
start out, as it were, from behind Langdale Pikes, 
and appearing to separate itself from them still 
further as the spectator makes his progress along 
this ridge. Wansfell may be conveniently visited 
either from Ambleside or Low Wood Inn ; and 
a formation of slaty limestone may be observed 
crossing its southern end. 

Loughrigg Fell the last and lowest, but not 
the least esteemed, is only 1050 feet above Win- 
dermere, and 900 above Grasmere lake. The 
moderate degree of exertion required to climb it, 
will be amply repaid by the prospects. By tra- 
versing its different points, may be seen a con- 
siderable portion of Windermere, Esthwaite, 
Grasmere and Rydal waters, Blelham, Elterwater, 
and Loughrigg Tarns, a small portion of Coniston 
and Thirlmere lakes, with other interesting scenery, 
scarcely to be equalled on so moderate an elevation. 



d2 



64 



BEARINGS AND HEIGHTS 



Station I. — Scawfell highest point, The Pikes. 

Latitude 54° 27' 24" N. Longitude 3° 12' W. Height 3160 feet. 





BEARINGS 


Distance 
in miles 


Height 
in feet 


Skiddaw 


10° NE 


14 


3022 


Ingleborough, Yorkshire . . 


58 SE 


38 


2361 


Black Combe, Cumberland . . 


19 SW 


15 


1919 


Snowdon, Caernarvonshire . . 


20 SW 


103 


3571 


Holyhead Mountain, Anglesea 


37 SW 


100 


709 


North Barule, Isle of Man 


78 SW 


49 


1804 


Sleiph Donard, Ireland . . . 


79 SW 


112 


2820 


Mull of Galloway, Scotland 


77 NW 


68 


■ 


Burrow Head, . do. . . 


68 NW 


51 





Crif Fell, . . do. 


26 NW 


38 


1831 



Station II. — Skiddaw. 

Latitude 54° 39' J2" N . Longitude 3° 8' 9" W. Height 3022 feet. 



Wisp Hill, near Mospaul Inn 

Carlisle 

Cheviot Hill, Northumberland 
Cross Fell, Cumberland . . 

Saddleback 

Nine Standards, Westmorland 
Ingleborough . . . . . 

Helvellyn 

Black Corabe 

Snowdon 

Snea Fell, Isle of Man . . , 
Sleiph Donard, Down . . 
Bryal Point, nearest in Ireland 
Mull of Galloway . . . , 

Burrow Head , 

Crif Fell 

Ben Lomond, Stirling . . . 
Ben Nevis, Inverness . . . 
Queensberry Hill, Scotland . . 



9°NE 


45 


26 NE 


19 


35 NE 


70 


82 NE 


27 


78 SE 


4 


68 SE 


38 


42 SE 


46 


32 SE 


10 


15 SW 


29 


19 SW 


118 


64 SW 


59 


73 SW 


120 


82 SW 


91 


89 NW 


69 


84 NW 


50 


43 NW 


28 


30 NW 


120 


28 NWj 


170 


22 NW| 


48 



1940 



2004 
2820 



1831 
3420 
4358 
2259 



OF MOUNTAINS. 



65 



Station III. — Helvellyn. 



Latitude 54° 31' 43" N . Longitude 3° 0' 21' ' W. Height 3070 feet. 



Cheviot 

Cross Fell 

Stainmoor 

Ingleborough 

Bidston Lighthouse, Cheshire 
Garreg Mountain, Flintshire 
Old Man, Coniston .... 

Snowdon 

SneaFell ...... 

CrifFell 



BEARINGS 


Distance 
in miles 


28° NE 


75 


60 NE 


24 


88 SE 


34 


45 SE 


36 


1 SW 


79 


8 SW 


87 


21 SW 


12 


24 SW 


112 


74 SW 


61 


40 NW 


38 



2658 
2901 

2361 

835 
2577 
3571 
2004 
1831 



Station IV. — Coniston Old Man. 

Latitude 54? 22' 20' N. Longitude 3° 6 : 34" W. Height 2577 feet. 

Calf, near Sedbergh .... 
Great Whernside, Kettlewell 
Whernside, near Dent . . . 

Pennygant 

Ingleborough 

PendleHill 

Lancaster 

Moel Fammau, Denbigh . . 
Carnedd Llewellyn, Caernarvon 
Carnedd David . . do. 
Snowdon . ... do. 
Penmaen Mawr . . do. 
Holyhead Mountain . . . 

Black Combe 

Snea Fell 

Burrow Head 

Skiddaw : ■-'■>.■ 3022 

TThe foregoing tables are inserted to shew the relative positions and 
height of some of the principal mountains beyond the limits of this map ; 
without intending to say, that all of them can be discerned from the 
station under which they are placed.] 



East 


25 


72° SE 


48 


71 SE 


31 


70 SE 


38 


64 SE 


33 


44 SE 


49 


31 SE 


25 


4 SW 


85 


23 SW 


92 


23 30' 


93 


23 40' 


99 


24 SW 


85 


41 SW 


98 


46 SW 


12 


84 SW 


55 


64 NW 


56 


4 NW 


20 



( 66 ) 

Names of frequent occurrence among the Mountains. 

Dod is generally applied to a secondary elevation attached 
to one of the larger mountains ; and mostly having a rounded 
summit. There is the Dod on the western side of Skiddaw, 
and also in front of Red Pike; and Starling Dod, nearer 
Ennerdale. In the mountain range proceeding north from 
Helvellyn, are Stybarrow Dod, Watson Dod, and Great Dod. 
And in Patterdale, Glenridden Dod, and Hartshope Dod. 

Barrow, a term often intended to signify an artificial hill, 
is also applied to natural ones. There is Barrow on the west 
side of Derwent Lake, a hill 1200 feet high ; there is Whit- 
barrow near Penrith, and Whitbarrow near Witherslack: 
Yewbarrow in Witherslack, and Yewbarrow in Wasdale. 
Latterbarrow explains itself, a hill branching from the side of 
a mountain : we have Latterbarrow at the foot of Wast Water, 
and Latterbarrow in Ennerdale. 

How generally implies a hill rising in a valley; (the sides 
of such hills are frequently ornamented with dwellings.) 
There is the How halfway between the Lakes of Derwent and 
Bassenthwaite ; Pouterhow, at the head of Bassenthwaite lake ; 
and Castlehow, at its foot : Great How near Rosthwaite, and 
Great How near Leathes Water : the How and Butterlip How 
in Grasmere, the How in Ennerdale, and the How near Lough- 
rigg Tarn, with several others. Numerous alluvial or diluvial 
hillocks of a parabolic form are found in the heads of several 
vales — in both the Langdales, in Greenup vale in Borrowdale, 
and in the head of Ennerdale, where they are peculiarly inte- 
resting. 

Cam [comb] the erest of a mountain, as well as of a cock : 
as, Catsty Cam — Rosthwaite Cam. 

Neese [nose] a ridge running from the summit of a moun- 
tain steeply downwards : as, Gavel neese — Lingmel neese. 

Coom in some districts, and Cove in others, denotes a place 
scooped out of the side of a mountain ; there is Coom, and 
Gillercoom in Borrowdale; Keppel Cove, Brown Cove, Red 
Cove, Ruthwaite Cove and others in the side of Helvellyn. 

Door, an opening between two perpendicular cheeks of 
rock : as Mickle Door — Coom Door — Low Door, modernized 
into Lowdore. 



( 67 ) 



THE CRAGS. 



Some of the most remarkable Crags are — the 
Pillar in Ennerdale ; Honister Crag near Butter- 
mere; Scawfell Crags, between Wasdale head 
and Eskdale ; Broad Crag on the Wasdale side, 
and Broad Crag on the Eskdale side of Scawfell 
Pikes; Paveyark, in Langdale; Raisbarrow 
Crag, in Kentmere; St. Sunday Crag, in Patter- 
dale ; Wallow Crag near Keswick, and Wallow 
Crag near Hawes Water ; Wallowbarrow Crag, 
in the vale of Duddon ; Castle Crag in Mardale, 
Castle Crag in Borrowdale (said to have been a 
Roman station), and Castle head near Keswick; 
Green Crag in Legberthwaite, sometimes called 
the Enchanted Castle or Castle Rock of St. John's; 
Gait Crag [Goat Crag] in Borrowdale, Gait Crag 
near Shoulthwaite, and Gait Crag in Langdale ; 
Dow Crag [Dove Crag] in Coniston Fells, Dow 
Crag in Patterdale, and Dow Crag in Eskdale ; 
Eagle Crag in Borrowdale, Eagle Crag in Butter- 
mere, and Eagle Crag in Patterdale ; Falcon Crag 
near Derwent Lake ; and a Raven Crag in almost 
every vale, one of the most conspicuous of which 
is that overlooking Leathes Water. 



( 68 ) 

ANTIQUITIES. 

A Druid's Temple one mile and a half from 
Keswick, in a field adjoining the old road towards 
Penrith. It is a circle 112 yards in circumference, 
formed by 38 rough stones, from 3 to 8 feet in 
height ; 10 other stones forming a square within, 
on the eastern side. 

King Arthur's Round Table, a place where, 
Clark says, the brave of other days vindicated 
their knighthood by feats of arms ; and May burgh, 
a "mysterious structure 1 ' which he supposes to 
have been the Gymnasium, where the wrestlers, 
the racers, and others of lower degree performed 
then* exercises — are both near Eamont Bridge. 

The principal Monastic remains are Furness 
Abbey in Lancashire, and Calder Abbey near the 
road from Ravenglass to Whitehaven; there is 
also one of smaller dimensions near Shap. 

Remains of ancient Castles are to be seen at 
Cockermouth, Egremont, Penrith, Brougham, and 
Kendal. Part of that at Cockermouth has been 
repaired and is inhabited, the others are in various 
stages of decay. 

On Hardknot and on Carrock Fell are some 
mystic remains of inclosure walls. And near 
Devoke water, the ruins of a place called Barnscar. 



( 69 ) 



STAGES IN THE LAKE DISTRICT. 



Lancaster, over Sands to Flookborough 


16 


Flookborough, over Sands, to Ulverston 


7 


Lancaster to Milnthorp, New Road 


14 


Milnthorp to Newby Bridge 





15 


Newby Bridge to Ulverston 




9 


Ulverston to Hawkshead ... 


... ... 


16 


Hawkshead to Bowness, by the Ferry 


6 


Ulverston to Ambleside, by Coniston ... 


22 


Milnthorp to Kendal 


... 


8 


Lancaster to Burton 


.. 


• ... 


11 


Burton to Kendal 


,, 


. ... 


11 


Kendal to Bowness 


.. 


... 


9 


Bowness to Ambleside ... 


.. 


, ... 


6 


Kendal to Low Wood Inn 


.. 


... 


12 


Kendal to Ambleside 


.. 


... 


14 


Bowness to Newby Bridge 


.. 


. 


8 


Newby Bridge to Hawkshead 


.. 


... 


9 


Hawkshead to Ambleside 


.. 


... 


5 


Low Wood Inn to Penrith 


.. 


• ... 


27 


Low Wood Inn to Keswick 


.. 


... 


18 


Ambleside to Penrith 


.. 


• ... 


25 


Ambleside to Keswick 


.. 


... 


16 


Keswick to Cockermouth, New 1 


load 


13 


Cockermouth to Whitehaven 




, 


14 


Keswick to Penrith 


... 


... 


18 


Penrith to Carlisle 


,. 


... 


18 


Keswick to Wigton 


.. 


... 


22 


Wigton to Carlisle 




... 


11 



( 70 ) 

EXCURSIONS. 



t£? Market Towns in Small Capitals ; Inns and 
Public Houses in Italic. 



THE CONISTON EXCURSION, FROM BOWNESS. 

COMPUTED MILES. 

2 Cross Windermere to Ferry House . . 2 

4 By Esthwaite Water to Hawkshead . 6 

3 Coniston Water Head 9 

3 Borwick Ground 12 

5 Ambleside, Salutation 17 

THE LANGDALE EXCURSION, FROM AMBLESIDE. 

3 Skelwith Bridge 3 

2 Colwith Cascade 5 

3 BleaTarn 8 

3 Dungeon Gill 11 

2 Langdale Chapel Stile 13 

5 By High Close and Rydal to Ambleside 18 

ULLSWATER, FROM AMBLESIDE. 

10 Patterdale . 10 

9h Pooley Bridge 19^ 

44 Eamont Bridge 24 

1 Penrith — Crown, George 25 

HAWES WATER, FROM PENRITH. 

5 Lowther, or Askham ...".... 6 

7 By Bampton, to Hawes Water .... 12 

4 Return by Bampton, to Butterswick . .16 

5 Over Moor Dovack to Pooley Bridge . .21 

6 By Dalemain to Penrith 27 



EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 71 



A DRIVE ROUND DERWENT LAKE. 

COMPUTED MILES, 

2 Barrow House, and Cascade 2 

1 Lowdore, . ditto 3 

1 Grange . 4 

1 Bowder Stone 5 

1 Return and cross the River at Grange . 6 

4| Portinscale 10| 

\\ Keswick, Royal Oak, Queens Head ' . 12 



A RIDE TO BUTTERMERE. 

5 Bowder Stone 6 

1 Rosthwaite 6 

2 Seatoller 8 

2 Honister Crag 10 

2 Gatesgarth 12 

2 Buttermere . . 14 

Boat on Crummock Lake ; see Scale Force and return, 
5 miles. 

9 Through Newlands to Keswick . . ■ . 23 



A DRIVE TO BUTTERMERE. 



2| Braithwaite 2^ 

2£ Summit of Whinlatter 5 

3 Lorton 8 

8 By the side of Crummock lake to Buttermere 16 

16 Return to Keswick same way; .... 32 

or through Newlands 7, miles nearer. 



A DRIVE TO SCALE HILL. 

8 Lorton 8 

4 Scale Hill 12 

Boat on Crummock lake ; see Scale Force and Buttermere, 
and return, 10 miles. 

12 Return to Keswick 24 



72 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 

A TWO DAYS' RIDE. 

COMPUTED MILES. 

8 ToSeatollar 8 

1 Seathwaite 9 

3 Sty Head 12 

2 Wasdale Head 14 

6 Nether Wasdale, Strands 20 

4 Gosforth . 24 

5 Colder Bridge 27 

SECOND DAY. 

7 Ennerdale Bridge 7 

3 Lamplugh Cross 10 

4 Lowes Water 14 

2 Scale Hill . • 16 

4 Buttermere 20 

9 Keswick 29 

A DRIVE TO PATTERDALE. 

11 Beckses 11 

7 Gowbarrow Park 18 

4 Patterdale 22 

Return the same way ; or 
10 Pooley Bridge 32 

6 Penrith 38 

A DRIVE TO POOLEY BRIDGE. 

' 12 Penruddock 12 

3 Dacre 15 

3 Pooley Bridge 18 

6 Penrith 24 

5 Or, from Pooley Bridge to Lowther . . 23 
5 Lowther to Penrith 28 

A DRIVE ROUND BASSENTHWAITE LAKE. 

5 Bassenthwaite Sandbed 5 

3 Castle Inn . 8 

1 Ouse Bridge 9 

1 Peel Wyke 10 

8 Keswick 18 



( 73 ) 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS TO TOURISTS. 

From Lancaster, by way of Furness Abbey, 
Coniston, fyc. to Windermere. In approach- 
ing the Lakes from the south, great variety of 
routes present themselves ; the choice of which 
must depend upon circumstances of taste, con- 
venience, and mode of travelling. When the 
Tourist has arrived at Lancaster, should the 
ruins of Furness Abbey be an object of contem- 
plation, the shortest way is to cross the Lancaster 
and Ulverston Sands, which on a fine day, may 
be considered a very interesting ride of 22 miles 
to Ulverston ; from whence it is 7 miles to the 
Abbey. Those who want courage to venture 
upon the sands, may take the new turnpike road 
to Milnthorp. Opposite the village of Bolton, 
about 2 miles to the right, is a natural cavern, 
called Dunald Mill Hole; and further onwards 
the two remarkable hills of limestone — Warton 
Crag on the left, and Farlton Knot to the right. 
From Lancaster to Milnthorp is 14 miles : and 
here is the option of the Ulverston or Kendal 
roads. The Ulverston road after passing Hever- 
sham and Levens, turns to the left, over some 
large tracts of peatmoss, having on the right the 
isolated ridges of limestone, called Whitbarrow, 
[the white hill] and Yewbarrow, forming lofty 



74 GENERAL DIRECTIONS 

scars, [escarpments] on their western sides, and 
reposing on the slaty rock upon which the road 
in part is formed. From Milnthorp to Newby 
Bridge is 15 Miles ; and here is the choice of 
continuing the Ulverston road, or proceeding along 
the banks of Windermere, by Bowness and Low 
Wood to Ambleside. 

The new road to Ulverston follows the course 
of the Leven to Backbarrow, where it crosses the 
river by a bridge situated among manufactories of 
cotton, of iron, of pyroligneous acid, and of gun- 
powder. Leaving Hollow Oak on the left, it passes 
over some peatmoss, and presently approaches 
the sands, where it is interesting to meet the flow- 
ing tide, as it washes against the breastwork of 
the road. The river Crake, which issues from 
Coniston water, is then crossed by a bridge under 
which the tide flows, and we join the old road near 
a place called Greenod, where small craft take in 
their lading, consisting chiefly of slate, timber, 
and iron. From Newby Bridge to Ulverston is 
9 miles, Ulverston to Dalton 5, and thence to 
Furness Abbey 2 miles. This Monastery was 
founded in 1127, the Monks were Benedictines of 
the order of Savigny; they afterwards became 
Cistertians, and continued till the dissolution in 
1537. From the rising ground of Hawcoat one 
mile west of the Abbey there is a prospect over a 



TO TOURISTS. 75 

richly cultivated country and a part of the sea, to a 
most extensive range of distant mountains : and 
from the more lofty station of Birkrigg the view 
of Furness and the surrounding coast is singularly 
beautiful. Two miles from Ulverston is Conis- 
head, generally called the Priory, a place highly 
extolled by Mr. West, who says " it is a great 
omission in the curious traveller, to be in Furness 
and not to see so wonderfully pretty a place, to 
which nature has been so profuse in noble gifts, 
and where art has lent its best assistance, under 
the regulation of an elegant fancy, and a refined 
taste.' 1 The house is now undergoing a complete 
renovation. Ulverston is upon the slaty rock, 
Dalton upon mountain limestone, and the valley 
in which Furness Abbey is placed is flanked by 
by red sandstone, from which the Abbey has been 
built. Iron ore is procured in large quantities 
from veins in the limestone ; good specimens of 
red hematite may here be obtained, with specular 
iron ore, and quartz crystals. 

The road generally preferred on leaving Ulver- 
ston, leads by Lowick Chapel, where there is a 
good view of Coniston Lake, with the mountains 
at its head, and Helvellyn in the distance ; and 
after crossing Lowick Bridge, proceeds up the 
eastern side of the lake to Waterhead Inn, distant 
from Ulverston 14 miles. 



76 GENERAL DIRECTIONS 

At Coniston, besides the views of the lake from 
its banks, and from its bosom in a boat, the lovers 
of landscape beauties may find some pretty walks, 
in the vales of Yewdale and Tilberthwaite. A 
full length view of the lake is obtained in passing 
over the hill called Tarnhows, on the road towards 
Elterwater ; and an excursion to Levers Water 
and the Old Man, on a fine day, would not be 
thought uninteresting. The geologist may amuse 
himself by tracing a stratum of transition lime- 
stone, alternating with slate, as it bassets out upon 
the hills, on the north-west of the road leading 
towards Borwick Ground ; just beyond which 
place it is quarried, and a kiln built, on the left 
of the road to Ambleside. The slate quarries 
about Tilberthwaite, and the copper mines on Til- 
berthwaite Fell, and near Levers Water, may also 
be visited; and on the road to Ambleside, the 
Brathay flag quarry may be considered worth 
notice. 

From Coniston, those who feel no hesitation 
in crossing the Ferry on Windermere, may pro- 
ceed through Hawkshead, by the side of Esthwaite 
Water, to the Ferry ; and after taking a view of 
Windermere, from Mr. Curwen's Station-house, 
cross the water to Bowness, distant from Coniston 
Water-head 9 miles. Those who object to cross- 
ing the water, may either proceed from Coniston 



'OFRISTS. 77 

to Ambleside direct, 8 miles ; or from the Ferry, 
by the western banks of the lake to Ambleside, 
distant from Coniston by this route 14 miles. 

From Milnthorp direct to Windermere. 

Putting Furness Abbey out of the question, 
some will rather proceed from Milnthorp to 
Kendal, and from thence to Windermere Lake at 
Bowness, Low Wood, or Ambleside. At Ken- 
dal, a museum kept by Mr. Todhunter deserves 
attention, as exhibiting the natural history and 
antiquities of the country. Here is also a marble 
manufactory carried on by Mr. Webster, where 
several varieties of limestone are worked and po- 
lished as marble. Tourists who spend a day in 
Kendal may find a pleasing walk of two miles to 
Scout Scar, which lies to the south west of the town 
on the edge of a precipitous limestone rock ; it 
affords a complete panoramic view, and is a fine 
station for an introduction to the mountains, or 
taking leave of them on a return from the lakes. 

From Milnthorp to Kendal, is 8 miles ; Kendal 
to Bowness, 9. For such as wish to arrive at 
once upon the centre of Windermere, there is a 
shorter, but inferior road from Milnthorp to Bow- 
ness, through Crosthwaite and Winster, in one 
stage of 14 miles. From Kendal to Low Wood 
Inn is 12, and to Ambleside 14 miles. About 8 



78 GENERAL DIRECTIONS 

miles from Kendal, on either the Bowness or 
Ambleside road, there is a grand view of Winder- 
mere Lake. Near Bowness, are eminences of 
various degrees of elevation ; where according to 
the taste of the party, the views may be taken 
either from a higher or a lower station. — At Low 
Wood, while the admirer of the landscape takes 
his views of the lakes and mountains from the 
rising grounds ; and the angler amuses himself 
upon the water ; the geologist may be empolyed 
in examining the position of the transition lime- 
stone, and the slate, where they have been work- 
ed, in two adjoining quarries near the road, about 
a quarter of a mile north of the inn. And the 
neighbourhood of Ambleside affords many plea- 
sing excursions. 

Coniston and its environs may be visited from 
Bowness, first crossing the Ferry on Windermere. 
The scenery is good from the rising grounds of 
Sawrey, and by the side of Esthwaite Water, 
over which there are sweet views of the vale of 
Hawkshead, spotted with neat houses, and its 
church on an elevated site; the mountains of 
Langdale and Grasmere, with Helvellyn, and 
those of Rydal, rising proudly in the distance. 
Passing through the little town of Hawkshead, 
(where a post-chaise is kept at the Red Lion,) 
and over the high grounds to the inn at Coniston 



TO TOURISTS. 79 

Waterhead, the distance from Bowness is 9 miles 
The return may be made by the head of Win- 
dermere to Bowness 13, or to Ambleside 8 miles; 
but it would be a great omission to forego the beau- 
tiful views that might be had on the road from 
Bowness, by Troutbeck bridge and Low Wood 
to Ambleside. 

Ambleside. The Lansxlale excursion from 

Ambleside or Low Wood, presents a variety of 
lake and mountain scenery, scarcely to be equalled 
in a journey of the same length, during the whole 
tour. It may be performed on horseback ; but 
many parts of the road will not admit of any kind 
of carriage, except a cart. Passing Clappersgate, 
the party may either proceed with the river on 
the left, to Skelwith Bridge ; or crossing Brathay 
Bridge, take the river on the right, by Skelwith 
Fold. At Skelwith Bridge, is a public-house, 
and a little further up the river, a considerable 
waterfall ; but the road by Skelwith Fold, being 
on a higher elevation, commands a fuller view into 
Great Langdale. After the junction of the two 
roads, there is a view of Elterwater. The road 
entering Lancashire at Brathay, or at Skelwith 
Bridge, leaves it again at Colwith Bridge ; a little 
above which, is a pretty cascade. After passing 
Little Langdale Tarn, the road over Wrynose 



80 GENERAL DIRECTIONS 

takes the left hand, the one to be pursued turns 
to the right, ascending the common to Blea Tarn ; 
near to which the Langdale Pikes exhibit their 
most magnificent contour. Leaving the tarn and 
solitary farm house on the left, proceed to the 
edge of the hill, where you will have a fine view 
of the head of Great Langdale, into which the 
road steeply descends. A curious waterfall may 
be seen in Dungeon Gill, — a stream issuing be- 
tween the two Pikes ; and falling among rocks of 
a peculiar flinty appearance. Mill Beck is the 
stream flowing from Stickle Tarn, and gives 
name to two farm-houses, at one of which it may 
be convenient to leave the horses, while visiting 
Dungeon Gill. Following the road down Great 
Langdale, the traveller will arrive at Thrang 
Crag, where the rock in a slate quarry is excava- 
ted in an awful manner ; and soon after pass the 
chapel, near which is a small alehouse. Here, 
taking the road to the left, you come to a second 
prospect of Elterwater ; and at a little distance on 
the right, you have the works lately erected for 
the manufacture of gunpowder. Near the farm- 
house called High Close, you have a fine view 
over Loughrigg Tarn, with Windermere in the dis- 
tance ; and crossing a road leading from Skelwith 
Bridge, come in sight of the peaceful vale of 
Grasmere, near the station recommended by 



TO TOURISTS. 81 

Mr/ West. Then, leaving the lakes of Grasmere 
and Rydal on the left, you join the turnpike road, 
and conclude the excursion at Ambleside after a 
most pleasing circuit of eighteen miles. 

A variety of shorter excursions may be made 
from Ambleside ; a walk of half a mile from the 
inn, to the waterfall of Stock Gill, will not be 
neglected ; and one of a mile and a half may be 
taken to the falls at Rydal. A ramble round the 
lakes of Rydal, and Grasmere; round, or over 
Loughrigg Fell ; a more elevated walk to Wans- 
fell Pike ; or the still more lofty circuit of Fair- 
field, on a favourable opportunity, will not fail to 
please such as delight in extensive prospects. 
Those who have not already seen Coniston, may 
make an excursion thither : and Ullswater may 
also be visited from hence, by the steep carriage 
road over Kirkstone, (which rises near 1200 feet 
above Ambleside,) to Patterdale 10 miles ; and 
either return the same way, or proceed to Penrith 
15 miles more. Or stop at Pooley Bridge, if that 
be preferred ; from whence Hawes Water, and 
Lowther Castle may be visited. And some who 
travel on horseback might choose a ride over the 
mountains Wrynose and Hardknot, through the 
vale of Eskdale to Nether Wasdale, about 22 
miles ; and next day by Wast Water, Styhead, 
and Borrowdale, to Keswick 20 miles. 



82 



At Ambleside is an exhibition of drawings, and 
prints, begun by the late Mr. Green, and con- 
tinued by his family. Mr. Green depicted the 
varied scenery of this interesting region, with an 
ability and industry seldom united in one person. 
In the entrance upon a tour, these delineations 
may be useful, in shewing the character of the 
several parts of the country about to be visited; 
and on the conclusion, a selection — which can be 
purchased at a moderate expense — may revive at 
a future period the pleasing recollection of some 
favourite scenes. And Green's Guide will long 
remain a monument of the assiduity with which 
he pryed into the arcana of these mountains. 

From Ambleside to Keswick. — The road from 
Ambleside to Keswick affords a charming variety ; 
it passes, first the neat village and small lake of 
Rydal ; next the extensive slate quarry at White 
Moss ; and then, by a deviation lately made in 
the road, we soon come in sight of the lake and 
beautiful vale of Grasmere, so much extolled by 
Mr. Gray. By this improvement travelling is con- 
siderably facilitated ; but those who journey " in 
search of the picturesque," may think that it brings 
them too close to the water. And thus it will 
often happen where roads are diverted for the 
convenience of travellers, that they will be less 



TO TOURISTS. 83 

fruitful in prospsects. After passing through the 
finely diversified vale of Grasmere, we come to a 
hill which no deviation can avoid, — Dunmail liaise 
720 feet above the level of the sea, being the 
lowest pass through that mountain chain which 
extends from Black Combe into the county of 
Durham ; each of the two great roads over Shap 
fells and Stainmoor being nearly double that 
elevation. On the highest part of the road a large 
heap of stones marks the boundary of Westmor- 
land and Cumberland, here the lofty Skiddaw 
shews his venerable head in the distance ; and 
presently a view of Thirlmere or Leathes 1 Water 
is obtained. After passing the small inn and 
Chapel of Wythburn, and approaching the margin 
of the lake, Helvellyn is upon the right ; but the 
road lies so near its base, that the full height of 
the mountain cannot be seen. A little beyond 
the sixth mile-stone from Keswick, the summit of 
1 Skiddaw again appears to the left of the wooded 
hill called Great How ; to the right of which, and 
more in front, is a delightful view of the vale of 
Legberthwaite, through which the road leads ; a 
continuation of this valley northward takes the 
names of Fornside, and Wanthwaite, together 
constituting what is called St. John's Vale ; be- 
yond which the lofty Saddleback, with its furrowed 
front, closes the scene. A road turns off on the 



84 GENERAL DIRECTIONS 

right towards Threlkeld, and passes under the 
bold castle-like rock of Green Crag, sometimes 
called the Castle rock of St. John's. The Kes- 
wick road inclines to the left, and surmounting the 
cultivated ridge called Castlerigg, there is a full 
view of Derwent Lake, with part of that of Bas- 
senthwaite, the town and vale of Keswick, with 
its surrounding mountains. It was here, that 
Mr. Gray on leaving Keswick, found the scene so 
enchanting, that he " had almost a mind to have 
gone back again." From Ambleside to Keswick 
is 16 miles and a half. 

From Penrith, by Ullswater to Patterdale. — 
Those who approach the lakes, by the way of 
Penrith, may visit Ullswater from thence ; either 
driving the length of the lake to Patterdale, or 
taking a boat at Pooley Bridge. On every reach 
of the lake, the prospects improve in grandeur 
as the traveller advances towards the mountains. 
At Hallsteads, on a fine promontory, with beauti- 
fully undulating grounds, Mr. Marshall has built 
an elegant house. About Lyulph's Tower, (a 
hunting seat built by the late Duke of Norfolk,) 
the views are excellent, and Airey Force may be 
seen by application to the keeper, who resides 
here. Glencoin is a farm placed in a sweet re- 
cess, where a brook divides the counties of Cum- 



TO TOURISTS. 85 

berland and Westmorland. At the foot of Glen- 
ridding, the Rev. Mr. Askew has a tasteful cot- 
tage ; and towards the foot of Grisedale, stands 
a stately fabric built upon the site of the ancient 
Patterdale Hall. The inn at Patterdale is a little 
above the head of the lake, and opposite to it, on 
the side of Place Fell, there is a slate quarry ex- 
cavated to a considerable extent ; from the banks 
of which you have a grand view of the mountains 
and part of the lake ; the highest point of Helvel- 
lyn may be just seen from hence, or from Lyulph's 
Tower ; but not from any place nearer the inn. 
From Penrith to the inn at Patterdale is 15 miles; 
from whence the party may either return to Pen- 
rith, or proceed over Kirkstone to Ambleside, 10 
miles. 

Hawes Water. This lake, on account of 

its distance from the main roads, is often omitted 
in the tour ; but such as are desirous, may visit 
it from Penrith, by Eamont Bridge. Turning 
to the right at Arthur's Round Table, between 
the rivers Eamont and Lowther, pass Askham, 
Butterswick and Bampton; proceeding as far along 
the banks of the lake as may be thought expe- 
dient : and in returning, if on horseback or on 
foot, taking the track over the common called 
Moor Dovack, from whence there is a fine view 



86 GENERAL DIRECTIONS 

of the greater part of Ullswater. From thence 
descend to Pooley Bridge, and for variety cross 
the river, returning by Dalemain to Penrith. Sup- 
posing this excursion extended as far as Chapel 
hill a mile above the head of Hawes Water, or to 
Mardale Green which lies a little further, the 
whole circuit will be about 30 miles. But those 
who take up their quarters for a time at Pooley 
Bridge, may visit Hawes Water most conveniently 
from thence. 

From Carlisle to Keswick. Tourists from 

the north, when at Carlisle, may proceed towards 
the lakes, either by Penrith or Wigton : from 
Wigton towards Keswick, there are some good 
views over the Solway Firth ; and Bassenthwaite 
Lake (which some say should be first visited) is 
seen without deviating from the road — one of the 
richest views that it affords, being from the top of 
the hill called the Hause, about four miles after 
leaving Ireby ; there is also a good retrospective 
view, about five miles before reaching Keswick. 

Keswick. Having now by different roads 

conducted the several parties to Keswick, it must 
be made head quarters for a while, to examine the 
curiosities of the place — to enjoy the rich scenery 
in its neighbourhood — and to make excursions, 



TO TOURISTS. 87 

some of a few hours, some of a day, and others 
perhaps of more than one day. 

Keswick has a population of 2000 inhabitants ; 
its principal trade is in the woollen manufactory ; 
here are also several manufactories of black lead 
pencils, and one of scythes, shovels, and edge 
tools. The principal inns are the Royal Oak and 
Queen's Head; there are other houses where small 
parties may be accommodated, besides many 
neatly furnished private lodgings. Here are two 
museums, exhibiting the natural history of the 
country, and numerous foreign curiosities : one was 
established by the late Mr. Crosthwaite, (who 
published his maps of the lakes about forty years 
ago,) and is now kept by his son ; the other is 
kept by Mr. Hutton, who has for many years 
acted as guide to the gentry frequenting the Royal 
Oak inn, and who has assiduously applied him- 
self to the pursuits of botany and mineralogy, as 
each in its turn became the fashion of the day. 
At both the museums and at other places, the 
various mineral productions of the country are 
kept on sale. Post chaise and ponies may be had 
at the inns, with experienced guides for excursions 
by land ; and neat pleasure-boats with intelligent 
boatmen for the water. 

For an introduction to the beauties of Keswick 
vale, a good station will be found on Castlehead — 
e2 



88 GENERAL DIRECTIONS 

a wooded rock in the centre of the Derwentwater 
estate, at the distance of half a mile from the inn ? 
and rising to the height of 280 feet above the lake 
of Derwent, which is here finely displayed, with 
its numerous bays and islands. Lord's Island, 
near the shore, was once the residence of the 
family of Derwentwater; the smaller island of 
Rampsholm lies beyond it ; St. Herbert's Isle 
nearer the middle of the lake ; and to the right 
Vicar's Isle, on which General Peachy has a house. 
The circumjacent mountains of Borrowdale and 
Newlands make a fine panorama. At the head of 
Borrowdale appears Great End Crag, beyond it 
a part of Scawfell with the highest of the Pikes. 
Looking through the vale of Newlands, Red Pike, 
distinguished by its colour, rises over Buttermere. 
To the eastward, Wanthwaite Crags, and Great 
Dod, form the end of the mountain range extend- 
ing from Helvellyn. To the north Skiddaw rises 
finely, and Saddleback may be seen over the trees. 
Crosthwaite Church is a good object in the vale, 
and over the rising ground beyond Bassenthwaite 
Lake, the mountain CrhTel in Scotland shews his 
head. This may be thought too elevated a sta- 
tion for the eye of a painter ; but as a general view 
of the lake, the town, and valley, [it is excellent. 
Some of the lower stations formerly recommended 
are rendered less inviting by the too great profu- 



TO TOURISTS. 89 

sion of wood upon the shores of the lake, and upon 
the islands ; but this rock will always remain suf- 
ficiently prominent for a prospect ; and in itself 
it offers a study for the geologist. 

A walk by the water side, to Friar Crag, at the 
distance of three quarters of a mile, is the favourite 
promenade of the inhabitants of the town, and af- 
fords much gratification to strangers. On leaving 
the street the prospect is over Crow Park, which 
at the time of the attainder of the late Earl of 
Derwentwater, was a wood of stately oaks ; but 
now a fine, swelling, verdant field, on which races 
are annually held.. Beyond this the view em- 
braces the vale and mountains of Newlands, with 
High-stile presiding over Buttermere in the dis- 
tance: in retrospect Skiddaw rises majestically 
over the town. On the left, lies Cockshot, a hill 
thickly covered with oaks, and a tall silver fir 
upon its crest ; the trees intercept the views from 
its summit, but a walk round its margin may some- 
times be taken on account of the shelter it affords. 
Coming in sight of the lake, Vicar's Isle is most 
happily placed, the house just appearing among 
a variety of forest trees with which the island 
seems wholly covered; but on inspection, it is 
found to be beautifully laid out in pleasure 
grounds, and kept in the neatest order. Along the 
margin of the water numerous boats are moored, 



90^ GENERAL DIRECTIONS 

some belonging to private individuals, others kept 
for the accommodation of visiters ; and at the 
termination of the walk on the low promontory 
of Friar Crag, the eye is saluted with a full pros- 
pect of the lake, bounded by the far famed moun- 
tains of Borrowdale. To the left, near the shore, 
Stable Hills farm is reared, upon the site where 
stood Lord Derwentwater's stables at the time his 
mansion was upon the adjacent island. The 
Parks, part cultivated, part wooded, occupy the 
rising ground, over which Wallow Crag shews 
his massive rocky front; those, with the lands 
betwixt the town and lake, form the Derwentwater 
estate, now belonging to Greenwich Hospital. 
Further on lies Barrow House, and above it the 
pastoral farm of Ashness ; beyond the small island 
of Rampsholm pours the famed cataract of Low- 
dore; and Castle Crag appears between more 
lofty mountains, like a centinel placed to guard 
the entrance of Borrowdale. To the right of St. 
Herbert's Isle, Catbells with a front of lighter 
green, shelve into the lake ; which is chiefly bor- 
dered on that side by the woods of the late Lord 
William Gordon. Looking through the lateral 
vale of Newlands, Red Pike appears beyond But- 
termere; and more to the right Causey Pike 
and Griesdale Pike shew their aspiring peaks. 
Excellent views of the vale and mountains are 



TO TOURISTS. 91 

also obtained from the Vicarage, from Ormthwaite, 
from many parts of a road leading by Apple- 
thwaite and Milbeck along a pleasant elevation at 
the foot of Skiddaw, and from the side of Latrigg. 
Those who admire higher elevations, may climb 
to the top of Latrigg — Wallow Crag — Swinside 
— Catbells — Causey Pike, or Grisedale Pike ; — 
and to crown the whole, for once, to the summit 
of Skiddaw. 

Round Derwent Lake. A delightful excur- 
sion may be made round Derwent Lake, either 
on horseback or in a carriage. Two miles from 
Keswick, with the lake on the right, a road turns 
off to Watendlath ; a little further is Barrow 
House, behind which is a fine cascade. Barrow 
House, the property of Joseph Pocklington, Esq. 
a gentleman of Nottinghamshire ; as also that 
upon the Island, now General Peachy's ; and one 
at Derwent Bank, afterwards purchased by Lord 
William Gordon; — were built by the late Mr. 
Pocklington. His style of building was rather 
singular, and has occasioned many severe remarks. 
At the time he first became acquainted with the 
vale of Keswick it was comparatively little known, 
and he was desirous of contributing to its cele- 
brity ; and though his attempts to improve the 
face of the country failed to meet with general ap- 



92 GENERAL DIRECTIONS 

probation ; yet, his errors of judgment were fully 
compensated by the liberality of his motives ; and 
Keswick may long remember his name as one of 
its first benefactors. Three miles from Keswick 
is Lowdore, famous for its waterfall ; and a mile 
further a bridge leads to the Grange, — a few farm 
h ouses seated on the opposite bank of the river. 
About these places the draftsman will find em- 
ployment for his pencil, and the geologist will 
observe the transition from the dark coloured clay 
slate, to the more variously aggregated and paler 
coloured slaty rocks. The river might be crossed 
here, but it may be recommended to proceed a 
mile further to the Bowder Stone, not altogether 
for a sight of the stone itself, (though it is consi- 
dered as a curiosity, being a large fragment of 
rock pitched in a singular position,) but more 
especially for a prospect of the higher parts of 
Borrowdale which are here advantageously display- 
ed. Returning to Grange, the road then crosses 
the river, and is carried along a pleasant elevation 
above the woods of the late Lord William Gordon, 
his house standing on a sheltered bay of the lake. 
From this elevation, the lake — with its islands, 
bays, and promontories — is seen to great advantage. 
The road then crossing the pleasant vale of New- 
lands, joins the Cockermouth road at Portinscale, 
and reaches Keswick in a circuit of 12 miles. 



TO TOURISTS. \)6 

Keswick to Borrowdale by Watendlath. 

On a second excursion to Borrowdale, on foot or 
on horseback, the road by Ashness to Watendlath 
may be taken : it affords some fine bird's-eye views 
of Derwent Lake, with Bassenthwaite in the dis- 
tance. After losing sight of the lakes, the road 
lies along a contracted valley, by the side of the 
stream which supplies the cataract of Lowdore. 
At the distance of five miles from Keswick it 
reaches Watendlath, which consists of a few anti r 
quated cottages and farm buildings in colour dark 
as the neighbouring rocks ; just beyond which the 
tarn is placed, amidst a small area of green mea- 
dows, surrounded by wild and uncultivated hills. 
A track leads from thence over the hill, from 
which there is a fine view of the head of Borrow- 
dale ; it then descends steeply to Rosthwaite, 
whence the return may be made by Bowder Stone 
to Keswick ; a circuit of 14 miles. To contract 
this excursion, the stream from Watendlath may 
be crossed about a mile beyond Ashness ; then, 
turning towards Lowdore, one of the finest views 
the country affords is through the opening above 
the waterfall. 

Keswick to Buttermere. An excursion 

through Borrowdale to Buttermere may be made 
on horseback, taking the road as before described 



94 GENERAL DIRECTIONS 

as far as Bowder Stone : a mile beyond which, 
at Rosthwaite, is a small public-house. A little 
further, a road on the left leads by Stonethwaite, 
over the steep mountain pass called the Stake, to 
Langdale. Tourists have sometimes been advised, 
by this track to connect Borrowdale with Lang- 
dale, in one excursion ; but the better way is to 
explore Langdale from Ambleside, and Borrow- 
dale from Keswick. 

At Seatoller, about eight miles from Keswick, 
a road on the left leads to the Blacklead Mine? 
and to Wast Water ; and here the Buttermere 
road, turning to the right, ascends (by the side 
of a stream broken into pretty waterfalls,) up a 
steep hill ; from which there are some fine retro- 
spective views of the upper parts of Borrowdale ; 
and Helvellyn soon begins to shew his head, over 
the mountains of Watendlath. In passing the 
hause, (which rises 880 feet above the level of 
Derwent Lake,) Honister Crag in majestic gran- 
deur is presented to the view ; between which 
and Yew Crag, the road now sharply descends : 
both these rocks are famed for producing roofing 
slate of the best quality. Here the edges of the 
road are beautifully tufted with Alchemilla alpina, 
and on the side of the stream is a small vein of 
specular iron ore. Gatesgarth dale, through 
which the road now goes, (twice crossing and re- 



TO TOURISTS. 95 

crossing the stream,) is a narrow valley, strewed 
with large blocks of stone, fallen from the rocks 
above ; and solemnly shaded by the lofty Honis- 
ter, which towers to the height of 1700 feet above 
the vale. We now re-enter upon the same soft 
clay-slate rock, which we parted from at Grange, 
and the change is soon apparent in the smooth- 
ness of the road. 

Opposite to the farm of Gatesgarth, which is 
two miles from the inn at Buttermere, a shep- 
herd's path leads over the mountain, by a pass 
called Scarf-gap, and after crossing the narrow 
dale of Ennerdale, proceeds to Wasdale head 
over a second and higher mountain called the 
Sail. The crags on the left of Scarf-gap are, 
from their form, called Haystacks; and to the 
right three adjoining summits are called High- 
crag, High-stile, and Red-pike. The two first 
are composed of what some would call a por- 
phyritic greenstone rock, the third of a reddish 
sienite. Between the second and third is a small 
tarn, described by Mr. West, as "a large crater, 
that from the parched colour of the conical moun- 
tains in whose bosom it is formed, appears to have 
been the focus of a volcano at some distant period 
of time when the cones were produced by the 
explosion" ! The road, after passing Gatesgarth, 
touches upon the margin of Buttermere Lake, 



96 GENERAL DIRECTIONS 

where a vein of lead-ore is opened by the way- 
side, and a little further upon the left is the 
neat sheltered cottage of Haseness. From Kes- 
wick to the inn at Buttermere by this route is 
14 miles. 

At Buttermere, a boat is usually taken upon 
Crummock Lake, as well for the views of the 
scenery around, as being the most convenient way 
of seeing Scale Force. It is an agreeable walk of 
half a mile to the water, and after a pleasant little 
voyage of nearly a mile, a walk of three quarters 
of a mile reaches to the fall. Travellers may in- 
deed walk from the inn to Scale Force; but 
the path being wet and unpleasant, a boat is 
greatly to be preferred. If the weather be unfa- 
vourable for using the boat, a good view of Crum- 
mock Lake may be had, by riding a mile and a 
half on the eastern side, to the rocky point called 
the hause. After the necessary refreshment at But- 
termere, it is an agreeable ride of 9 miles through 
the peaceful vale of Newlands, and by Portinscale 
to Keswick. 

Those who travel in carriages to Buttermere, 
may take the old Cockermouth road, over t the steep 
mountain Whinlatter, which, in the length of 
two miles, rises to the height of 800 feet above 
the vale. After passing the sixth mile-stone, a 
road turns to the left, which winding round the 



TO TOURISTS. 97 

hill, presents a fine view of the cultivated vale of 
Lorton, and a distant prospect of the mountains 
of Kirkcudbright. If the day be favourable for a 
voyage on Crummock Lake, the carriage may be 
driven to the inn at Scale Hill, 12 miles from 
Keswick. Here by taking a boat upon the lake, 
the mountains are seen to great advantage ; and 
the party may be landed for a walk to Scale Force, 
and again, for a walk to the village of Buttermere 
and a view of the lake beyond it ; then returning 
the same way to Keswick. If any objection should 
arise to taking a boat, the carriage may be driven 
along the banks of Crummock Lake to Butter- 
mere, (16 miles ;) and either return the same way 
or through the vale of Newlands where the road 
is somewhat improved ; but still so steep that it 
may be necessary to alight and walk for a short 
distance. 

Keswick to Wast Water, SfC. fyc. Those 

tourists who visit Wast Water from Keswick, 
generally make an excursion on horseback for two 
days: by which plan, Borrowdale and Wast 
Water are seen on the first day ; and Ennerdale, 
Lowes Water, Crummock, and Buttermere on 
the second. The road up Borrowdale as far as 
Seatoller, has already been described ; from 
whence the Wasdale road is on the left to Sea- 



98 GENERAL DIRECTIONS 

thwaite ;* opposite to which on the right, lies the 
famous Black-lead Mine. Beyond Seathwaite, 
the road becomes a mere track, fit only for horses 
accustomed to the country. A waterfall presents 
itself to view on the right ; and after crossing a 
rude bridge, the ascent of the mountain is com- 
menced by a winding path. On passing a piece 
of water called Sty-head Tarn, the bold and lofty, 
crag of Great-end, appears on the left ; and be- 
yond it, in towering majesty, the highest of the 
Pikes, rendered more conspicuous by an object 
lately erected in the prosecution of the trigono- 
metrical survey. Great Gable is close upon the 
right; but the grandeur of its form is 'better 
appreciated at a distance. The highest part of 
the road at Sty-head is 1250 feet above the first 
house in the vale, and here a magnificent view 
presents itself: the small valley of Wasdale head 
appearing as if sunk below the general level, and 
the sea at a distance seeming to rise in the hori- 
zon. The lake of Wast Water is not yet in sight, 
being hid by a projecting mountain on the left, 
called Lingmel. A steep zigzag track now de- 
scends on the side of Gable, down which the horses 

* There is a great discordancy in the spelling and pronouncia- 
tion cf local names : this is provincially pronounced Seewhaite, 
while a place near the source of the river Duddon, with the 
same spelling, is called Se'dthet. 



TO TOURISTS. 99 

may be led ; as it is neither quite safe nor agree- 
able to ride ; crags of the most grotesque forms 
overlook the road, and the side of the hill is pro- 
fusely strewed with stones, in some of which gar- 
nets may be found imbedded : and in crossing the 
stream which issues between Gable and Kirkfell, 
a rock of reddish granite may be seen, where it is 
denudated by the waters on both sides of the road. 

Wasdale head comprises a level area of about 
400 acres of land, divided by stone walls into small 
irregular fields, which have been cleared with great 
industry and labour ; as appears from the enor- 
mous heaps of stones, piled up from the surplus 
after completing the inclosures. Here six or seven 
families have their Chapel of a size proportionate 
to the number of inhabitants, and in a style ac- 
cording with the situation ; and what Mr. Gray 
formerly said of Grasmere, may with equal propri- 
ety be applied to this vale : " Not a single red 
tile, no gentleman's flaring house, or garden walls, 
break in upon the repose of this little unsuspected 
paradise ; but all is peace, rusticity, and happy 
poverty, in its neatest, most becoming attire." 

After passing the inhabited part of the valley, 
the road approaches the lake, which shews the 
purity of its water, by the clean blue gravel wash- 
ed upon its shores. As the road proceeds along 
the margin of the lake, the screes on the opposite 



100 GENERAL DIRECTIONS 

side form a striking object, and the mountains left 
behind should not be forgotten; retrospective 
views taken at short intervals, will shew the ma- 
jestic and varied forms they assume on being 
viewed from different points. 

It has been suggested, that Wast Water would* 
be more advantageously seen, by reversing the 
excursion, so that the principal mountain views 
would be always in prospect on advancing up the 
vale. As far as relates to Wast Water alone, 
this is certainly true ; but in what concerns Borrow- 
dale, Lowes Water, and Crummock, they are 
seen to more advantage by this route : besides, 
tourists generally congratulate themselves, on 
having passed over the most difficult part of the 
road on the first day. 

Towards the lower parts of the lake, the shores 
are more rocky ; and the composition of the rock 
is changed, from a kind of greenstone, to a red- 
dish sienite. About a mile after passing the foot 
of the lake, a road turns on the left to Haven- 
glass ; and a little further on near the Church, 
there are two small public-houses, at one of which 
it may be necessary to take some refreshment, after 
a morning's ride of 20 miles, and none of the 
best road. 

About four miles further, in the village of Gos- 
forth, a tall column carved with unintelligible 



TO TOURISTS. 101 

characters stands in the church-yard near the road. 

We have now left the mountainous district, and 
entered upon one more cultivated, where the prin- 
cipal views are to the sea, towards which the road 
seems fast approaching ; and the mountain rocks 
are succeeded by a red sandstone. The roads 
from Wasdale, Eskdale, and Ravenglass unite at 
Gosforth ; whence it is nearly three miles of ex- 
cellent road to Calder Bridge, at which place are 
two neat small inns, where lodgings are generally 
taken for the night. Three quarters of a mile 
above the bridge, lie the remains of Calder Abbey 
(a dependant on Furness Abbey) founded by the 
second Ranulph de Meschines in the year 1134, 
for Cistercian monks. The arches supporting 
the tower, and part of the colonnade, are still 
perfect. But its value as a ruin is somewhat 
deteriorated by part of its site being occupied 
by the family mansion of the Senhouses, to whose 
estate it belongs. 

From Calder Bridge there is an excellent road 
often miles to Whitehaven; but that usually taken 
by tourists inclines more towards the mountains, 
which however on this side present no very inte- 
resting features. For some miles the principal 
prospect is over a cultivated country to the sea, 
with the Isle of Man, and the Scotch mountains 
in the distance. About three miles from Calder 



102 GENERAL DIRECTIONS 

Bridge, the two rival points of Scawfell, appear 
over the neighbouring mountains, separated by 
the yawning chasm Mickle Door ; and two miles 
further, the town of Egremont is seen through a 
narrow vale on the left. Seven miles from Calder 
Bridge a part of Ennerdale Lake appears in sight ; 
and after passing the hamlet of Ennerdale Bridge, 
in which stands the Church and two small public 
house, the lake is observed from the rising ground 
in another point of view, accompanied by the 
grand mountain scenery of Ennerdale, amid which 
the Pillar rises conspicuous. The road here for a 
short distance is formed upon the limestone rock, 
which skirts the mountains. Turning to the 
right by the public house at Lamplugh Cross, 
in a mile further you pass between the Hall and 
the Church ; the Hall is now rebuilt in the shape 
of a modern farm house, the only remains of its 
ancient grandeur being a gateway, with the in- 
scription, " John Lamplugh, 1595." Two miles 
further, turning round the end of a hill to the 
right, the small lake of Lowes Water comes in 
view, accompanied by a rich assemblage of moun- 
tains. Soon after passing this lake, that of 
Crummock presents itself in one of its best com- 
binations ; and crossing the river Cocker, you 
shortly arrive at Scale Hill, distant from Calder 
Bridge rather more than 16 miles. 



TO TOURISTS. 103 

If Buttermere has not been previously visited, 
a boat may be taken upon Crummock Lake, which 
with a walk from the edge of the water to Scale 
Force, will make a pleasing variety. In the mean- 
time the horses may meet the party at Butter- 
mere, and the return to Keswick be made through 
Newlands — making this day's journey nearly 30 
miles. Those who have seen Buttermere, may 
save above a mile, by taking the carriage road 
from Scale-hill ; along which there is a pleasant 
view of the vale of Lorton, and also a fine view 
of the vale of Keswick in descending the hill from 
Whinlatter. Those who think this circuit too 
much for two days, may extend it to three, by 
staying one night at Nether Wasdale, and another 
at Scale-hill. 

To visit Wast Water in a carriage from Kes- 
wick, it will be necessary to go by Scale-hill and 
Ennerdale Bridge or Egremont — stopping two 
nights at Calder Bridge, and returning the same 
way, or by Whitehaven. 

Keswick to Bassenthwaite. This being 

thought less interesting than most of the other 
lakes, is often reserved to the last ; but some have 
remarked that it ought to be visited first, or before 
the imagination was too much elated by the more 
prominent features of the other lakes. However 



104 GENERAL DIRECTIONS 

tourists who prefer an easy journey, will find ob- 
jects to please, in a perambulation of 18 miles . 
round this lake. On the eastern side the traveller 
would sometimes wish for a nearer approach to 
the lake ; but few would think themselves repaid 
for the trouble of visiting Mr. West's stations at 
Bradness and Scarness ; there is a pleasant halting 
place at Castle Inn, eight miles from Keswick ; 
and from the foot of the lake the prospect is ex- 
tensive. There is also a public house at Peel 
Wyke on the western side, where the road being 
now improved and conducted nearly on a level 
with the water, is rendered very commodious for 
travelling, and at some turnings opens to pleasing 
views. 

Those who are not inclined to make the whole 
circuit of the lake, may be gratified in a ride of 
five miles by the foot of Skiddaw, to a station re- 
commended by Mr. Crosthwaite, a little above the 
road on the common at the end of a wood of 
larches : and in returning (if on horseback) take 
the upper road by Milbeck, Applethwaite, and 
Ormathwaite, where some of the best views of 
Derwent and its environs will be found. From 
thence either take the nearest road to Keswick ; 
or proceed by Mr. Calvert's occupation way along 
the side of Latrigg, and enter the town by the 
Penrith road. 



TO TOURISTS. 



105 



Keswick to Ullswater. Ullswater may be 

visited from Keswick on horseback or on foot; 
leaving the Penrith road a little beyond the se- 
cond mile-stone, crossing the vale of Wanthwaite, 
and passing over a bleak mountain side to Mat- 
terdale. Carriages are obliged to continue on 
the turnpike for more than ten miles. Neither 
of these roads r offers any thing interesting, ex- 
cept the views of St. John's vale, and the mountain 
Saddleback ; till they unite at Dockray : but after 
entering Gowbarrow Park, the prospect of Ulls- 
water is presented in one of its richest points of 
view. Airey Force and Lyulph's Tower lie a lit- 
tle to the left, and it is then five miles of delight- 
ful road to the inn at Patterdale. Some who 
travel in carriages, go from Keswick to Pooley 
Bridge, and thence to Penrith or Ambleside ; 
but the want of post-horses at Pooley Bridge is 
sometimes felt as an inconvenience. 

An attempt to enumerate all the permutations, 
that might be made in these excursions ; or all 
the pleasing points, from which the varied scenery 
of this interesting region might be viewed ; would 
be an endless and in fact a useless task. Persons 
who delight in exploring a country, need only be 
made acquainted with the outlines : they will 
feel more pleasure in finding out the rest. 



( 106 ) 

SEASON FOR VISITING THE LAKES. 

Every season has its peculiarities. — In spring, 
all nature is in its most cheerful mood. It is 
pleasing to observe the daily progress of the dif- 
ferent kinds of trees as they spread out their 
leaves, and the different plants as they expand 
their blossoms ; while the feathered choir enliven 
the air with their morning and evening songs. — 
In the middle of summer, all is gay ; the heat of 
the sun may at times incommode, but the length- 
ened days will afford a few hours for retirement 
in the shade, and the evenings are free from the 
chilling blasts prevalent at other seasons. — In au- 
tumn, the fields, the woods, and the mountain sides, 
display their most splendid variety of colouring, 
and the air is often favourable for distant pros- 
pects ; but the days are somewhat contracted, and 
for long excursions more early rising is required. — 
In winter — though deserted — the lakes still ex- 
hibit the same expanse of water, or else a glassy 
sheet of ice ; the mountains — whether naked, or 
partially or wholly covered with a mantle of snow 
— still reign in their wonted majesty ; the rocks 
have lost nothing of their grandeur; and the 
waterfalls are occasionally rendered more striking 
by the splendid and fantastic forms in which their 
spray is congealed. 



THE 

GEOLOGY 

OF 

THE LAKE DISTRICT. 



At the time this essay was first published, the 
structure of the mountainous district of Cumber- 
land, Westmorland, and Lancashire, was but little 
understood ; scientific travellers had contented 
themselves with procuring specimens of the differ- 
ent rocks, without taking time to become acquainted 
with their relative position. Since then, it has 
received more attention from persons conversant 
with geological inquiries ; but the result of their 
labours has not yet been given to the public. 
Therefore the following observations may still be 
acceptable to such as require only a general out- 
line ; and to those who feel disposed to explore for 
themselves, they may be useful in directing them 
more readily to the objects of their research. 

It is a question not fully determined among 
geologists, as to what rocks the term primitive, 
and to which that of transition or secondary, ought 
to be applied ; and it has also been disputed 
whether the rocks of this district should be regarded 



108 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 

as stratified or unstratified. It is true they pre- 
sent little of that regularity of appearance which 
is observable in the rocks of many other districts ; 
yet it will be admitted on due examination that 
they are in some degree stratified. 

Granite is understood to occupy the lowest place 
in the series of rocks hitherto exposed to human 
observation, and appears to be the foundation upon 
which all the others have been deposited ; in some 
countries it also constitutes the peaks of the high- 
est mountains, protruding itself through all the 
upper or newer formations ; that however is not 
the case in the district under consideration : it is 
here only exposed to view in the excavated parts of 
some of the mountains ; or where it rises so far as 
to form hills or ridges, they are of inferior elevation. 

That rock of granite which seems best entitled 
to the distinction of primitive, may be seen denu- 
dated in the bed of the river Caldew, near the 
north-east side of Skiddaw ; and in a branch of the 
river Greta, between Skiddaw and Saddleback, 
about 1200 feet above the level of the sea. This 
granite is of a grey kind, composed of quartz, white 
felspar, and black mica : it is traversed in various 
directions by veins of quartz; in some of which, 
molybdena, apatite, tungsten, wolfram, and other 
minerals have been found. 

A variety of granite with reddish felspar, and 



GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 109 

1 

which from its paucity of mica, has sometimes 
been called sienite, forms the two inferior moun- 
tain ridges, called Irton fell and Muncaster fell ; 
it extends to some distance on both sides of the 
river Esk, and may be seen in places almost as far 
as Bootle, and also at Wasdale head. At Nether- 
wasdale it becomes a finer grained sienite, in which 
form it extends through the mountains quite across 
Ennerdale, as far as Scale Force, and to the side 
of Buttermere Lake. It contains veins of red 
hematite and micaceous iron ore. Another variety 
of granite with reddish felspar in large crystals, 
is found on Shap Fells, and may be observed in 
situ on the road side near Wasdale Bridge, about 
four miles south of Shap. 

Carrock Fell consists of a rock generally referred 
to the class of sienite, varying its appearance in 
different parts of the mountain ; it contains (be- 
sides the usual ingredients of quartz and felspar) 
hypersthene and magnetic or titaniferous iron ore 
in various proportions. Near this a considerable 
quantity of lead ore and some copper have been 
procured: the lead is smelted and refined hard 
by, and yields a good portion of silver. 

A reddish porphyritic rock occurs on both sides 
of St. John's Vale, from two to three miles east of 
Keswick ; and a vein or dyke apparently related 
to the same, but far more beautiful, (being com- 



110 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 

posed of crystals of quartz and bright red felspar, 
imbedded in a brownish red compact felspar,) is 
found on Armboth Fell, six miles SSE of Keswick. 

It is not well known what place some of these 
granites, sienites, and porphyries hold in the series 
of rocks : from the scarcity of places at which 
their junction with the slate rock can be seen, it 
is not easy to ascertain whether they have been 
deposited upon that substance or protruded 
through it ; but the latter seems the more proba- 
ble supposition. 

The materials of which the great bulk of these 
mountains are formed, have been included under 
the general appellation of slaty rocks ; although 
many of them shew no disposition to the slaty 
cleavage. They may be classed in three princi- 
pal divisions. 

Of these divisions, the first or lowest in the 
series, forms Skiddaw, Saddleback, Grasmoor, and 
Grisedale Pike, with the mountains of Thorn- 
thwaite and Newlands ; it extends across Crum- 
mock Lake, and by the foot of Ennerdale as far 
as Dent Hill; and after being lost for several 
miles, it is elevated again at Black Combe. 

If we regard the granite of Skiddaw as a nucleus 
upon which these rocks are deposited in mantle- 
shaped strata, that which reposes immediately 



GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE Dl'STKICT. Ill 

upon it is commonly called gneiss ; but is rather 
more slaty and less granular than the gneiss of 
some other countries. More distant from the 
granite, the quantity of mica in the slate decreases, 
and it is marked with darker coloured spots ; it 
is then provincially called whintin, and is quarried 
for flooring flags and other useful purposes. This 
again is succeeded by a slate of softer kind, in 
which crystals of chiastolite are plentifully im- 
bedded ; these crystals gradually disappear, and 
the rock becomes a more homogeneous clay-slate, 
which, contrary to general observation, has its 
outgoing at a higher elevation than either the 
granite or the gneiss. 

These rocks are of a blackish colour, and divide 
by natural partings into slates of various thick- 
ness, which are sometimes curiously bent and 
waved : when these partings are very numerous, 
though indistinct at first, they open by exposure 
to the weather, and in time it becomes shivered 
into thin flakes, which lessens its value as a roof- 
ing slate. In some places the thin lamina alter- 
nate with others of a few inches in thickness; 
which are harder, and of a lighter colour, contain- 
ing more siliceous matter ; they have been by 
some taken for greywacke slate, though apparently 
belonging to a different formation. 

Rocks of this description have generally bee?i 
f2 



112 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 

represented as stratified, and the strata parallel to 
the slaty cleavage ; but this proposition should 
not be received without some hesitation. If it 
be supposed that these varieties of rock (between 
which there is no natural parting) have been de- 
posited upon the granite in the order in which 
they have been mentioned ; then, the strata may 
be said to be mantle-shaped round the granitic- 
nucleus; only interrupted in its continuity by 
the anomalous rocks of Carrock : but if it be as- 
sumed that the stratification follows the slaty 
cleavage ; then it may be said to have its bearing 
tending towards the north-east and south-west ; 
dipping generally at a high angle to the south- 
east, and presenting the edges of its lamina to the 
surface of the granite, from the proximity of which 
the nature and appearance of the rock must be 
presumed to be altered. 

The rocks belonging to this division do not 
effervesce with acids ; they contain no calcareous 
spar, except a little in some of the veins. They 
are intersected in places by dykes of a harder kind 
of rock, apparently of the nature of trap or green- 
stone. Veins of lead ore occur in several plaoes ; 
and have been worked between Skiddaw and 
Saddleback, in Thornthwaite, Newlands, and But- 
termere, but one in the parish of Loweswater, 
another about two miles below Ennerdale Bridge, 



GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 113 

and one below the level of Derwent Lake are the 
most productive at present in this ^district. A 
copper vein has formerly been worked to a great 
depth in a hill called Gold Scalp, in Newlands, 
and is said to have produced a very rich ore, which 
appears to have been the yellow sulphuret or cop- 
per pyrites. A little cobalt ore has been got in 
Newlands, and small quantities of manganese in 
various places. A salt spring near the Grange 
in Borrowdale, has anciently been of some repute 
for its medicinal qualities ; another has been more 
recently discovered in working a lead mine near 
Derwent lake. They both issue from veins in 
this rock, but their source remains unknown. 

The second division comprehends the moun- 
tains of Eskdale, Wasdale, Ennerdale, Borrow- 
dale, Langdale, Grasmere, Patterdale, Martin- 
dale, Mardale, and some adjacent places ; includ- 
ing the two highest mountains of the district, 
Scawfell and Helvellyn, as well as the Old Man 
at Coniston. All our fine towering crags belong 
to it ; and most of the cascades among the lakes 
fall over it. There are indeed some lofty preci- 
pices in the first division ; but owing to the shiv- 
ery and crumbling nature of the rock, they present 
none of the bold colossal features which are exhi- 
bited in this. 






114 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 

Great variety of rocks are included in this 
division, but their nomenclature is so far from being 
settled, that, should two separate catalogues be 
made out by different persons, they would probably 
vary in a great many items. Some will find 
greywacke and greywacke slate in one of these 
divisions, some in another and some in all ; while 
others ridicule the name as one invented to sup- 
ply the defect of a better. 

Most of these rocks are of a pale-bluish or grey 
colour, some of them belong to the family of the 
greenstones, some are of a porphyritic, others of 
a slaty structure ; differing however from the slates 
of the last division, inasmuch as these exhibit no 
distinct partings by which they are to be sepa- 
rated. A reddish aggregated rock of a coarse 
slaty structure, is to be seen on entering the com- 
mon on the road from Keswick towards Borrow- 
dale. It appears to form one of the lower beds of 
the division, and may be traced each way to some 
distance. It is succeeded by the more compact 
dark-coloured rock of Wallow Crag, in which 
quartz, calcareous spar, chlorite, and epidote, are 
found in veins. Garnets are found imbedded in 
some of the rocks on Castlerigg Fell and Great 
Gable. An amygdaloid rock, containing nodules 
of calcareous spar, and sometimes of agate, opal 
or calcedony, is met with in several places ; as 



GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 115 

near Honister Crag — between Bowder Stone and 
Rosthwaite — on Castlerigg Fell, near Keswick — 
and in Wolf Crag on the road to Matterdale. A 
curious mixed rock appears near Berrier ; it skirts 
the north side of Caldbeck Fells, forms the hill 
called Binsey, and may be seen on the north side 
of the Derwent near to Cockermouth. No organic 
remains have yet been discovered, either in this 
or the preceding division. 

The fine pale-blue roofing slate occurs in beds : 
(called by the workmen veins :) the most natural 
position of the lamina or cleavage of the slate 
appears to be vertical : but it is to be found in 
various degrees of inclination, both with respect 
to the horizon, and the planes of stratification. 
The direction of the slaty cleavage bears most 
commonly towards the north-east and south-west ; 
while the dip or inclination is more variable ; the 
former may be ascribed to some general operation 
of nature ; the latter being influenced by local 
circumstances — such as the weight of a mountain 
pressing upon one side, while the other side is 
wanting a support. The direction and inclination 
of the strata are more distinguishable by stripes 
and alternations in the colour and texture, than 
by any natural partings or strata seams; and 
the slates are split of various thickness, according 
to their fineness of grain, and the discretion and 



* 
»"•• 



116 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 

skill of the workman, without any previous in- 
dication of the place where they may be sol divi- 
ded. They do not separate into thin flakes, like 
those of the former division ; but some of them, 
when long in use, are subject to a peculiar species 
of decay, which operates most powerfully on parts 
least exposed to the weather. 

Most of the rocks of this division effervesce in 
some degree with acids, but more especially those 
possessing the slaty structure. They are not very 
productive of metallic ores, although they afford a 
considerable variety. Lead ore has been got in 
Patterdale; copper at Dalehead in Newlands, 
which is near the northern boundary of the divi- 
sion — it consists of grey and purple copper, with 
specimens of malachite. A mine at Coniston, 
near the southern boundary, produces the yellow 
sulphuret ; and a vein of the same has lately been 
opened at Wythburn. Small veins of iron ore 
are frequently met with, but scarcely thought 
worth notice. The famous plumbago or black- 
lead mine of Borrowdale is also situated in this 
division. 

The third division — forming only inferior ele- 
vations — commences with a bed of dark-blue or 
blackish transition limestone, containing here and 
there a few shells and madrepores, and alternat- 



GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTEICT. 117 

ing with a slaty rock of the same colour; the 
different layers of each being in some places several 
feet, in others only a few inches in thickness. 
This limestone crosses the river Duddon near 
Broughton ; passing Broughton Mills it runs in 
a north-east direction through Torver, by the 
foot of the Old Man mountain, and appears near 
Low Yewdale and Yew Tree. Here it makes a 
considerable slip to the eastward, after which it 
ranges past the Tarns upon the hills above Bor- 
wick Ground; and stretching through Skelwith, 
it crosses the head of Windermere near Low Wood 
inn. Then passing above Dovenest, and Skelgill, 
it traverses the vales of Troutbeck, Kentmere, 
and Long-Sleddale ; crossing the two intervening 
mountains in the direction of the roads which lead 
over them ; so that no relation can be discovered 
between the direction of the vallies and that of 
the stratification. It dips to the south-east, while 
the cleavage of the slate with which it is associa- 
ted, frequently inclines in an opposite direction. 

Towards the south-east succeeds a series of rocks 
of the same dark-blue colour, and principally of 
a slaty structure : but accompanied in places with 
a rock which breaks alike in all directions. This 
has supplied a great portion of the rounded 
stones found in the beds of the rivers Kent and 
Lune ; and furnishes materials for paving the 



118 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 

streets, and repairing the roads in [the vicinity. 
A rock of fine-grained sienite is observed near 
the foot of Coniston Lake ; and one containing 
a large portion of mica appears in Crosthwaite. 
The strata seams are more distinct in this than 
in the preceding division; but, like that, it is not 
marked by any natural partings in the plane of 
cleavage. A quarry one mile from Brathay on 
the road towards Hawkshead, yields excellent 
flags for flooring; and they are manufactured 
into tombstones with good effect, by Mr. Webster 
of Kendal, and by Mr. Bromley of Keswick. This 
quarry affords a good example of the stratification 
(or, as some will have it, the rhomboidal crystal- 
lization) of these rocks. The cleavage is here 
nearly perpendicular ; and the strata, being from 
one foot to five in thickness, dip to the south- 
east at an angle of about thirty degrees. In some 
districts the layers are so much diminished in 
thickness, that slates and tables are formed in the 
plane of the stratification, instead of that of the 
cleavage; and this has probably given rise to 
the notion of two distinct cleavages crossing each 
other under a certain angle. Roofing slate 
(called black slate, to distinguish it from the pale- 
blue of the second division) is manufactured in 
large quantities in the district between Ulverston 
and Broughton ; which is well situated for ship- 



GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 119 

ping either by the river Duddon or by canal from 
Ulverston. 

The- preference given to the slates from cer- 
tain quarries as requiring less weight for the co- 
vering of a roof of given dimensions, depends not 
so much upon the specific gravity (which varies 
at most from 2750 to 2800, or one part in 55) as 
upon the fineness of grain, which enables it to bear 
splitting thinner. All the rocks of this division 
effervesce more or less with acids ; they contain 
some calcareous spar and pyrites ; but little me- 
tallic ore, except a small quantity of galena, vttik 
green and yellow phosphate of lead, which has been 
got near Stavely. 

Although little difference has hitherto been 
made by authors between the roofing slates of 
these three divisions, yet a workman of moderate 
experience will readily distinguish them : and I 
have endeavoured to describe the peculiarities of 
each, that those who are hereafter engaged in ex- 
amining similar districts may be better enabled 
to compare them. 

A conglomerate composed of rounded stones of 
various sizes, from the smallest gravel, to the 
weight of several pounds, held together by an 
iron-shot, calcareous cement, forms a hill of para- 
bolic shape, about 1000 feet in height, called 
Mell Fell ; and some lesser elevations extending 



120 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 

to the foot of Ulls water. These pebbles are ap- 
parently fragments of older rocks, rounded by at- 
trition, and must have been transported from some 
distance, as the majority do not correspond with 
those of the immediate neighbourhood. This 
has been taken by some to belong to the old red 
sandstone formation ; but whether it passes under 
or only abuts against the adjacent limestone has 
not yet, I believe, been clearly ascertained. A 
similar composition appears in the bed of the river 
Lune at Kirkby Lonsdale, and also in the river 
Mint from 2 to 3 miles above Kendal, where it 
may be seen resting upon the blue rock ; and 
apparently a newer formation of this kind is found 
adjoining the sands near Humphry head. 

A superincumbent bed of limestone mantles 
round these mountains, in a position unconforma- 
ble to the strata of the slaty and other rocks upon 
which it reposes. It bassets out near Egremont, 
Lamplugh, Pardshaw, Papcastle, Both el, Ireby, 
Caldbeck, Hesket, Berrier, Dacre, Lowther and 
Shap; it appears again near Kendal, Witherslack. 
Cartmel, Dalton and Milium, from whence for 
some distance its place is occupied by the sea, 
and in the neighbourhood of Gosforth and Calder 
Bridge, a red sandstone intervenes, so that the 
limestone is either wanting or buried under more 
recent formations. It dips from the mountains 



GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 121 

on every side, but with different degrees of eleva- 
tion ; the declivity being generally least on the 
southern side. In the neighbourhood of Wither- 
slack it forms lofty isolated ridges, while the sub- 
jacent slaty rock appears in the lower ground: 
and it may be seen upon the surface as far as 
Warton and Farleton Crags, and even as far as 
Kellet, before it is covered by the sandstone of 
the coal measures. A remarkable exception, how- 
ever, occurs in Holker Park, where the mountain 
rock is succeeded by limestone, and that by sand- 
stone and shale, resembling that which accompa- 
nies coal — all within a very short distance. On 
the north and west of the mountains, the inclina- 
tion of the newer rocks appears to be greater and 
the strata thinner ; so that the clay-slate of the 
first division is succeeded by limestone, sandstone 
and coal, all in the distance of two or three miles. 
The principal mineral production of this lime- 
stone, is iron ore, which is raised in great quanti- 
ties near Dalton ; and the mines near Egremont, 
which had lain dormant for several years, have 
been re-opened, and yield a good quantity of ore. 
On external parts of this circle various sand- 
stones and coal succeed each other, and a thin 
seam of coal may be sometimes found interstrati- 
fied with the limestone, as at Hesket Newmarket ; 
but it is easily understood, that it would be in 



122 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 

vain to search for coal within this limestone cir- 
cle ; consequently it cannot be found in the neigh- 
bourhood of the lakes. 

Bowlder stones are often met with, far removed 
from their native rock, but do not appear to have 
been carried over high mountain ridges. The 
granite blocks from Shap Fells are 'scattered over 
a great part of Westmorland ; but are not found 
in the neighbourhood of the lakes. Bowlders 
from the sienite of Buttermere and Ennerdale are 
found on the west coast of Cumberland ; but not 
in the vales of Keswick and Windermere. The 
granite of Caldew and sienite of Carrock can be 
recognized in bowlders in the neighbourhood of 
Carlisle ; but are not seen to the south of Kes- 
wick. The famous Bowder Stone of Borrowdale 
does not come within the present description ; 
but a large block near Skelwith Bridge on the 
road to Grasmere — one near Coniston Waterhead, 
and another near Gosforth, as well as many others 
of smaller dimensions — are far more interesting to 
the geologist, yielding sufficient scope for conjec- 
ture as to the place of their origin, and the mode 
of their removal. 



METEOROLOGY. 



Besides the permanent beauties of a country 
diversified by hills and dales, mountains and lakes, 
there are transient subjects capable of arresting 
the attention of the contemplative observer; — 
amongst which are — the mists or fogs — forming 
over the surface of lakes — floating along the sides 
of hills — or collected into clouds, hovering upon 
the summits of mountains. 

Mountains have been supposed to attract the 
clouds with which their summits are so frequently 
enveloped ; but it is more to their agency in form- 
ing them, that the accumulation of clouds in 
mountainous countries may be attributed. Clouds 
are formed of aqueous particles' floating in the at- 
mosphere ; and they serve as an awning, to shield 
the earth from the violence of the sun's rays in 
hot weather ; and to protect it from the rigour of 
a cold winter's night, by obstructing the radiation 
of heat from its surface. In the clearest weather 
a portion of water always exists in the atmosphere 
in the state of an invisible vapour ; and the higher 
the temperature, the greater quantity it is able to 
sustain ; so that when air, fully saturated with 
vapour, suffers a diminution of its heat, the 
water is exhibited in the form of mists, clouds, 



1£4 METEOROLOGY. 

dew, or rain. It has been stated by the late Dr. 
Hutton of Edinburgh, and more fully exemplifi- 
ed by Mr. Dalton, that the quantity of vapour 
capable of entering into air, increases in a greater 
ratio than the temperature ; therefore whenever 
two volumes of air, of different temperatures, are 
mixed together, (each being previously saturated 
with vapour,) the mean temperature is not able 
to support the mean quantity of vapour ; conse- 
quently its precipitation in the form of clouds and 
rain, is occasioned, not by mere cold, but by a 
mixture of comparatively cold and warm air : and 
on this principle, may be explained, many of the 
phenomena of mist or fog, clouds, dew, and rain. 

Different portions of the earth's surface, and 
of course the contiguous portions of air, are differ- 
ently heated by the sun's rays impinging upon 
them in various degrees of obliquity ; and this 
difference is naturally much greater in a moun- 
tainous than in a champaign country ; and on 
two portions of air thus unequally heated, being 
intermixed one with the other — either by the ascent 
of the warmer and lighter part, or by a gentle 
current of the wind — the vapour assumes a visible 
form. 

The temperature of the earth, from a few yards 
below the surface, to the greatest depth hitherto 
explored, suffers little variation between summer 



METEOROLOGY. 125 

and winter. It corresponds nearly with the mean 
temperature of the atmosphere ; being here, about 
48 degrees of Fahrenheit's thermometer. A body 
of water, such as a lake of considerable depths 
forms a kind of mean, between the subjacent 
earth and the superincumbent air : its surface is 
influenced by the temperature of the atmosphere, 
while its lower parts admit of little variation; 
consequently the surface will in summer be the 
warmest, and in winter the coldest part. So long 
as the surface of the water retains its fluidity, the 
adjacent air never suffers so great an extreme of 
cold, as may be experienced at a distance ; and the 
surface being frozen, the water contiguous to the 
ice will always be nearly 32°; at the same time 
the temperature towards the bottom may be several 
degrees higher. 

In clear weather, the surface both of the earth 
and of water is warmed in the day and cooled 
during the night; but in very different propor- 
tions — the water retaining its heat much longer 
than the land. It will sometimes happen in an 
autumnal evening, that the temperature of the air 
and that of the water of a lake will be equal ; and 
yet before sunrise there may be a difference of 
twenty degrees or upwards : in this case, the air 
above the water being warmer, will contain more 
vapour than that above the land, and on their in- 



126 METEOROLOGY. 

termixture a mist or fog will be formed ; which 
will continue to float in the atmosphere till it be 
either dissolved by an increase of heat, or being 
moved into a colder region, be deposited in the 
form of dew or hoar frost. Sir Humphry Davy 
has observed, that upon some rivers on the conti- 
nent, a mist or fog began to appear as soon as the 
temperature of the air was diminished from 3 to 6 
degrees below that of the water. This will de- 
pend upon the previous moisture or dryness of 
the air, and partly upon the current of the wind ; 
but a fog is seldom seen on these lakes, until the 
difference of the temperature is more than 12 
degrees. 

On the disappearance of the sun in a clear 
evening, a mist is sometimes observed over a piece 
of moist ground ; where it seems to be formed 
and for some time kept afloat, by a kind of con- 
tention .between the heated surface of the earth 
below it, and the colder atmosphere above ; but 
the earth not continuing to afford the necessary 
supply of heat, the conflict ceases ; and the vapour 
settles upon the grass in the shape of dew. 

One fruitful source of the fog so much com- 
plained of in the metropolis is smoke, which the 
cold air above deprives of its caloric before its 
contents are sufficiently dissipated in the atmo- 
sphere ; so that the inhabitants of large towns are 



METEORLOGY. 1&7 

enveloped in clouds of their own creating, and 
obliged to burn candles at noon-day, while the 
country enjoys the brilliant light of an unclouded 
sun. 

It has been a matter of surprise to some, that a 
cloud should seem to remain stationary upon the 
summit of a high mountain, when the air was 
moving at a brisk rate. The warm air of a valley 
being impelled up the inclined plane of a mountain 
side, into a colder region, is not able to support 
the same quantity of vapour ; and a cloud is form- 
ed in consequence : and although the individual 
particles of which it is composed, are continually 
moving forward with the wind ; yet by a perpetual 
accession of vapour on one side, and dispersion on 
the other, the cloud may continue to occupy the 
same place, and appear to a distant observer as 
stationary ; although its component parts are suc- 
cessively changed : and in this manner may the 
materials of a cloud be transported invisibly from 
the summit of one mountain to that of another. 

When a dense cloud settles upon a mountain, 
the wind frequently blows from it on one side with 
an increased momentum, while on the opposite 
side its motion is retarded : and a shower com- 
mencing on the hills, is generally preceded in its 
course by a squall : — the air displaced by the fall- 
ing rain, making its escape along the vallies where 

G 



128 METEOROLOGY. 

it meets with the least resistance. By the un- 
equal distribution of vapour in the atmosphere, 
the visual rays passing through it suffer a variable 
degree of refraction ; on which account it is 
difficult to ascertain with precision the altitude of 
distant objects by trigonometrical calculation. In 
a morning when the air above is clear and nearly 
freed from vapour — while that near the surface 
of the ground is charged with as much as it can 
contain without destroying its transparency — 
refraction is at the greatest, objects near the 
horizon appear more elevated than ordinary ; and 
some are brought in sight that could not other- 
wise have been discerned: when a little after 
mid-day — the vapour being then more equally 
diffused — the altitude of an object may be more 
accurately observed. 

A covering of snow makes a kind of barrier, 
between the internal heat of the earth, and that of 
the atmosphere : being a bad conductor, it pre- 
serves the surface of the earth from the severity 
of cold in winter ; but in spring, excludes it from 
the genial effects of the solar rays. In the mean- 
time the contiguous atmosphere suffers more ex- 
tensive variations ; the greatest extreme of cold 
being experienced when the earth is covered with 
snow. 



THE 

FLOATING ISLAND 

IN 

DERWENT LAKE. 



The existence of this phenomenon has been 
doubted by some persons, while others admitting 
the fact, have contended that the term Floating 
Island was improperly applied to this subject ; as 
it never changes its situation ; being attached by 
its sides to the adjacent earth under water. Its 
occasional appearance, however, is ascertained 
beyond a doubt ; and Floating Island being the 
name by which it has always been known, there 
can be no manifest impropriety in retaining the 
appellation. 

It is situated in the south-east corner of the 
lake, not far from Lowdore, about 150 yards from 
the shore, where the depth of the water does not 
exceed six feet in a mean state of the lake. It 
has been said to make its appearance once in seven 
years, but that is quite uncertain ; it generally 
rises after an interval of a few years, and towards 
the conclusion of a warm summer. Its figure 
and dimensions are variable ; it has sometimes 



130 FLOATING ISLAND 

contained about half an acre of ground, at other 
times only a few perches : but extending in a 
gradual slope under water, a much greater portion 
is raised from, the bottom, than reaches the surface 
of the lake. Several rents may be seen in the earth 
about the place, which appear to have been occa- 
sioned by stretching to reach the surface. It never 
rises far above the level of the lake ; but having 
once attained the surface, it for a time, fluctuates 
with the rise and fall of the water ; after which 
it sinks gradually. When at rest in the bpttom 
of the lake it has the same appearance as the 
neighbouring parts, being covered with the same 
vegetation, consisting principally of Littorella 
lacustris, interspersed with Lobelia dortmanna^ 
Isoetes lacustris, and other plants common in this 
and all the neighbouring lakes : after remaining 
some time above the water its verdure is much 
improved. For a few inches hi depth it is com- 
posed of a clayey or earthy matter, apparently 
deposited by the water, and in which the growing 
plants have fixed their roots, the rest is a con- 
geries of decayed vegetable matter forming a 
stratum of loose peat earth about six feet in thick- 
ness ; which rises from a bed of very fine soft clay. 
A considerable quantity of air, is contained in 
the body of the island, and may be dislodged by 
probing the earth with a pole. 



For the last quarter of a century the times of 
its appearance have been as follows. In 1808 
from the 20th July to the beginning of October ; 
in 1815 from the 7th September to the end of 
October ; in 1819 from the 14th August to the 
end of that month ; in 1824 from 21st June to 
end of September ; in 1825 it was above water 
from the 9th to the 23rd of September ; and in 
1826 from the 11th July to the end of September: 
the uncommon circumstance of its appearing in 
three successive years may be attributed to the 
extraordinary warmth of the two last summers. 

It would be tedious to investigate every hypo- 
thesis which has from time to time been put forth 
to account for this phenomenon — with the ar- 
guments for and against each — some assuming 
water, others air, as the chief agent in its pro- 
duction. The following may be noticed as the 
principal. 

A small mountain stream which pours down a 
rock opposite the place, has been employed in 
various ways to account for the appearance of the 
island. This stream being lost under ground before 
it reaches the lake, some have imagined that its 
subterranean passage might extend so far; and that 
its usual aperture being in a dry season choked 
up, the increased pressure on the swelling of the 
brook by rain might elevate the island. Others 



132 FLOATING ISLAND 

say, that the water in its fall down the rock being 
beat into a foam, a quantity of air thus mecha- 
nically mixed with the water, may be conveyed 
beneath it, and that this air on its disengagement 
may force up the earth along with it. Others 
again suppose, that the alluvia of vegetable matter 
may in this manner be carried under, and by its 
decomposition a quantity of gas, capable of this 
effect, may be evolved. 

While one has ascribed its origin to those 
internal commotions by which earthquakes and vol- 
canoes are produced ; another, presuming on the 
existence of a mineral vein underneath, imagines 
that by the decomposition of pyrites contained 
therein, hydrogen gas sufficient to raise this mass 
of earth may be generated ; and a third, not caring 
to enter so deeply into the subject, thinks the air 
contained in the cellular leaves of plants growing 
upon the island, may be sufficient to give it 
buoyancy. 

One material circumstance has however general- 
ly escaped observation : namely, that the air to 
which the rising of this island has been attributed, 
is not collected in a body underneath it; but in- 
terspersed through the whole mass : not causing 
it to float "as a reversed saucer would in a bowl 
of water ;*" but by enlarging its bulk, and thereby 
diminishing its specific gravity. And the most 



IN DERWENT LAKE. 133 

probable conclusion seems to be, that air or gas is 
generated in the body of the island by decomposi- 
tion of the vegetable matter of which it is formed; 
and this gas being produced most copiously, as 
well as being more rarefied in hot weather, the 
earth at length becomes so much distended there- 
with, as to render the mass of less weight than an 
equal bulk of water. The water then insinuating 
itself between the substratum of clay and the peat 
earth forming the island, bears it to the surface, 
where it continues for a time ; till partly by escape 
of the gas, partly by its absorption, and partly 
by its condensation consequent on a decrease of 
heat, the volume is reduced ; and the earth gra- 
dually sinks to its former level, where it remains, 
till a sufficient accumulation of gas again renders 
it buoyant. 

But as the vegetable matter of which the island 
is principally composed, appears to have been 
amassed at a remote period, when the lake was 
of less depth than at present; and very little 
addition has been recently made by the plants 
growing upon the spot ; it is reasonable to suppose 
that the process furnishing the gas cannot from 
the same materials be continued ad infinitum : but 
that there must be a time when it shall have ar- 
rived at its maximum ; after which the eruptions 
will become less extensive or less frequent. 



0^ Mr. Dal ton, in a note subjoined to a paper of 
mine on this subject, published in the Memoirs of the 
Literary and Philosophical Society of Manchester, (vol. 
3, new series, ) says : " a quantity of the inflammable 
gas collected from the Floating Island in 1815, I found 
to consist of equal parts of carburetted hydrogen and 
azotic gasses, with about 6 W cent, of carbonic acid. 
The carburetted hydrogen was such, that one part re- 
quired two of oxygen for its complete combustion by 
electricity. It seems most probable that this gas is 
generated by the decomposition of vegetable matter in 
contact with water ; two atoms of carbon decompose 
two of water, and form at the same instant an atom of 
carburetted hydrogen and one of carbonic acid. The 
carbonic acid, being absorbable by water, is mostly dis- 
persed, and the other gas collects in small bubbles in 
the spongy texture of the soil till it is disturbed, when 
the bubbles unite and ascend in a body. The azotic 
gas is probably from the atmosphere, by means of water. 
The almost total absence of oxygen from such mixtures 
is remarkable." 



THE 

BLACK-LEAD MINE 

IN BORROWDALE. 



The mineral substance from which black-lead 
pencils are manufactured has successively been 
known by the several names of wad, black-caivke, 
black-lead, plumbago, and graphite. In the pro- 
gress of chemistry and its application to mine- 
ralogy, the original term wad, was abandoned, 
probably in consequence of the same name being 
given by the Germans, to a substance somewhat 
resembling this in appearance but of a different 
nature, viz. an oxide of manganese : the term 
black-cawke might be subject to a similar objec- 
tion, the word cawke being applied by miners to 
a sulphate of barytes : the names of plumbago 
and black-lead, although still retained in common 
use, tend to convey an erroneous idea of the sub- 
ject, as lead forms no part of its composition, 
which is found to be principally carbon combined 
with a small portion of iron : and graphite, per- 
haps the least objectionable term, has scarcely yet 
obtained currency. 

This mineral occurs in various parts of the 
world, and in rocks of different formation. In 
this island it has been discovered in Inverness 
g2 



136 BLACK-LEAD MINE 

shire, in gneiss, which is considered as one of the 
primitive rocks ; there it appears to be intermixed 
with a micaceous substance and other hard mineral 
bodies which render it unfit for pencils. In the 
borders of Ayrshire, it is found in the neighbour- 
hood of coal, to which it seems too nearly allied : 
but in no place has it been met with equal in 
purity to that produced from Borrowdale, in Cum- 
berland, where it lies in a rock of intermediate 
formation. 

We have no account of the first discovery, or 
opening of this mine, but from a conveyance made 
in the beginning of the seventeenth century, it 
appears to have been known before that time. 
The manor of Borrowdale is said to have belonged 
to the Abbey of Furness, and having at the dis- 
solution of that monastery, in the reign of Henry 
the Eighth, fallen to the Crown, it was granted 
by James the First to William Whitmore and 
Jonas Verdon, including and particularizing 
among other things, " the wad-holes, and wad, 
commonly called black-cawke, within the com- 
mons of Seatollar, or elsewhere within any of the 
wastes, or commons of the said manor, now or 
late in the tenure or occupation of Roger Robin- 
son, or his assigns, by the particulars thereof men- 
tioned, to be of the yearly rent, or value of fifteen 
shillings and fourpence." By a deed bearing 



IN BORROWDALE. 137 

date the twenty-eighth day of November, 1614, 
the said William Whitmore and Jonas Verdon, 
sold and conveyed unto Sir Wilfred Lawson, of 
Isel, Knight, and several others therein named 
to the number of thirty-six, chiefly inhabitants 
of Borrowdale, " all the said manor of Borrow- 
dale, with the appurtenances of what nature or 
kind soever, excepted and reserved unto the said 
William Whitmore, and Jonas Verdon, their 
heirs and assigns, all those wad-holes, and wad, 
commonly called black-cawke, within the commons 
of Seatollar, or elsewhere within the commons 
and wastes of the manor of Borrowdale aforesaid, 
with liberty to dig, work, and carry the same, 
and other their appurtenances whatsoever." In 
consequence of which reservation the wad, or 
black-lead mine has been ever since held distinct 
from other royalties of the said manor, one moiety 
thereof now belonging to Henry Bankes, Esq. M. P. 
the other half being subdivided into several shares. 
This mine is situated about nine miles from 
Keswick, near the head of the valley of Borrow- 
dale, in the steep side of a mountain, facing to- 
wards the south-east, and has been opened at dif- 
ferent places where the wad had probably appeared 
on the surface : the rock in which it occurs is 
called by Mr. Bakewell, a grey felspar porphyry ; 
near the mine it becomes of a darker colour, as 



138 BLACK-LEAD MINE 

containing more iron, the joints being lined with 
a ferruginous clayey matter : it is intersected in 
various directions by strings, or small rake veins, 
containing in some places a little calcareous spar, 
and other vein stuff, and sometimes a superficial 
glazing of black-lead without the substance ; but 
the wad is only found in sops, or bellies, which 
appear generally to be formed by the intersection, 
or crossing of the veins, and are often at consider- 
able distance from each other, and found with 
difficulty. 

Formerly this mine was worked only at inter- 
vals, and when a sufficient quantity had been pro- 
cured to supply the demand for a few years, it was 
strongly closed up until the stock was reduced ; 
but of late, it has been obtained less plentifully, 
and the demand being greater, the working has 
been continued for several years successively. 

An old level, which was re-opened in 1769, was 
found to have been cut through this very hard 
rock, without the help of gunpowder ; and a kind 
of pipe vein which had produced a great quantity 
of wad, having been pursued to the depth of one 
hundred yards and upwards, much inconvenience 
was experienced in working it : to obviate which 
in 1798, an adit, or level was begun in the side of 
the hill, which at the length of 220 yards commu- 
nicates with the bottom of the former sinking ; 



IN BORROWDALE. 139 

since which time the works have been carried on 
internally through various ramifications ; a survey 
of which was made a few years since by the late 
Mr. Farey. Through this principal level the water 
now passes off, and the produce and rubbish are 
brought out upon a rail-way in a small waggon ; 
and over its mouth a house is built, where the 
workmen are undressed and examined as they pass 
through it on leaving their work. 

Owing to the great value of this mineral, and 
the facilities afforded for disposing of it in an 
unmanufactured state, the greatest precaution has 
sometimes been scarcely sufficient to keep the 
workmen from pilfering, and even those appointed 
to overlook them have not always escaped sus- 
picion ; yet, it is but justice to the present mana- 
ger, to state, that for upwards of fifty years that 
he has been employed, he has always sustained an 
unimpeachable character. 

To prevent the depredations of intruders, it has 
sometimes been necessary to keep a strong guard 
upon the place ; and for its better protection, an 
Act of Parliament was passed 25th Geo. 2d. cap. 
10th, by which an unlawful entering of any mine, 
or wadhole of wad, or black-cawke, commonly 
called black-lead, or unlawfully taking, or carry- 
ing away any wad, &c. therefrom, as also the 
buying, or receiving the same, knowing it to be 



140 BLACK-LEAD MINE 

unlawfully taken, is made felony. In the pre- 
amble of this Act, it is stated to be " necessary 
for divers useful purposes, and more particularly 
in the casting of bomb-shells, round shot, and 
cannon balls ;" however, its use in cleaning and 
glossing cast iron work, such as stoves, grates, &c. 
is now well known to every housemaid. 

Being capable of enduring a great heat without 
fusing, or cracking, it is used in the manufacture 
of crucibles ; and its excellence in diminishing 
friction in wooden screws, and other machinery, 
makes it become an ingredient in several anti- 
attrition compositions ; but effects have been for- 
merly attributed to it in dying, and medicine, 
which were perhaps only imaginary. Yet its 
principal use is in pencils, for which Keswick has 
long been famed ; and in their manufactory great 
improvements have lately been made ; but though 
in the vicinity of the mine, the pencil-makers are 
obliged to purchase all their black-lead in London, 
as the proprietors will not permit any to be sold 
until it has first been lodged in their own ware- 
house. It has generally been used without any 
previous preparation, being only cut with a saw 
to the scantlings required, and thus enclosed in a 
suitable casing of cedar wood ; but being generally 
too soft for some purposes, a method of hardening 
it had long been a desideratum ; and a process 



IN BOEROWDALE. 141 

has at length been discovered, by which it may be 
rendered capable of bearing a finer and more 
durable point, but its colour will be somewhat 
deteriorated. 

Great quantities of pencils are now made of a 
composition, formed of the saw-dust and small 
pieces of black-lead, which being ground to an im- 
palpable powder, is mixed with some cohesive me- 
dium : for this purpose different substances are 
employed, some of which make a very inferior 
pencil ; but others being united at a proper de- 
gree of heat, and consolidated by a strong pres- 
sure, make a pencil to answer for many purposes, 
(especially where the writing is intended to be per- 
manent,) full as well as the genuine black-lead. 

The specific gravity of the best wad. or black 
lead, is, to that of water, as two to one nearly : 
the coarser kind is heavier in proportion, as it 
contains more stony matter. It comes from the 
mine in pieces of irregular shape, and of various 
sizes, requiring no process to prepare it for the 
market, further than freeing the pieces from any 
stony or extraneous matter, which may adhere to 
them. It is then assorted according to the differ- 
ent degrees of purity and size, and thus packed in 
casks to be sent off to the warehouse in London, 
where it is exposed to sale only on the first Mon- 
day in every month. 



142 BLACK-LEAD MINE IN B0RROWDALE. 

In the year 1803, after a tedious search, one of 
the largest bellies was fallen in with, which pro- 
duced five hundred casks, weighing about one 
hundred and a quarter each, and worth thirty 
shillings a pound and upwards ; besides a greater 
quantity of inferior sorts ; and since that time 
several smaller sops have been met with ; but for 
the last seven years the quantity raised has been 
comparatively trifling. 

By an account published in 1804 the stock 
then on hand was valued at o£?54,000, and the 
annual consumption stated to be about £3,500. 
This afforded a clue to the assessors of the pro- 
perty tax which soon after came into operation ; 
and this mine — which 200 years ago had been 
valued at fifteen shillings and four-pence— was 
accordingly rated at «£2,700 a year. The con- 
sumption appears to be constantly increasing ; but 
how far a permanency of supply can be calculated 
upon, is questionable. The most prolific part of 
the mountain may be already explored, and the 
principal body or trunk of the mine excavated, 
60 that posterity must be contented with gleaning 
from the branches. 



AN ACCOUNT OF AN 

EXCURSION 

TO THE TOP OF SKIDDAW. 

IN A LETTER FROM A FRIEND. 



We rose at four in the morning, in order to 
ascend to the summit of Skiddaw, a distance of 
nearly six miles. The top of the mountain was 
veiled from our view by heavy clouds : but we 
were not to be intimidated by this circumstance ; 
the barometer was rising, and we were in hopes 
of their clearing off; besides it was the only day 
we could spare for the purpose. We were advised 
to take ponies, but that we declined — naturalists 
should never follow a beaten track, and we were 
determined to be at liberty to explore on the right 
hand and on the left, as fancy might direct us. 

Taking the Penrith road for half a mile, we 
crossed a bridge over the Greta, and turning at 
an acute angle to the left, we slanted by a pleasant 
occupation road along the side of Latrigg— a hill 
sometimes designated by the whimsical cognomen 
of " Skiddaw's cub" — which we were told was 
about one third of the height of the parent moun- 
tain ; but, judging by the eye at setting out, we 



144 EXCURSION TO SKIDDAW. 

should have estimated it at much more. From 
this beautiful terrace is seen a richly cultivated 
foreground, in which the little town of Keswick is 
placed in a most favourable point of view ; Der- 
went lake — finely bordered by noble woods, climb- 
ing the mountain sides to different altitudes ; the 
Vicar's isle, most advantageously placed — the 
building upon it just perceived through the trees 
which are now reflected by the smooth surface of 
the lake ; beyond which the southern and western 
groups of mountains arrange themselves with all 
that it is vast, bold and dignified in effect and con- 
tour ; varied however as to wood and rock, and 
terminated by the lofty crag of Great End, and 
the mountain Scawfell, now capped with clouds. 
On the other hand, we observe the beautiful villa 
of Ormathwaite, placed in a sweet recess, among 
well cultivated corn and pasture lands, finely 
decorated with trees. The parish church of Cros- 
thwaite is a good. object in the landscape, and the 
flat extending towards Bassenthwaite lake is beau- 
tifully bordered on the western side by the corn 
fields, woods, and white buildings of Thornthwaite. 
Winding round the skirts of Latrigg, we found 
ourselves risen almost insensibly to a considerable 
elevation above the plain ; but having passed a 
sort of hause, which forms the connection between 
Latrigg and Skiddaw, we now entered upon our 




EXCURSION TO SKIDDAW. 145 



task in earnest, the ground here becoming much 
steeper, and our road being exchanged for a turfy 
path. 

Persons who have not been accustomed to 
mountainous excursions, cannot form a conception 
of the toil they require, or the demands they make 
on the breath and patience of the traveller, and 
it requires no small degree of judgment and pre- 
caution to regulate the proportion of pause to 
exertion, for by too bold an effort to gain ground 
at the outset, time and strength are often ineffec- 
tually wasted. 

As we advanced in altitude, the valley gradually 
lost its picturesque appearance, and began to put 
on the semblance of a map ; and spots that an 
hour before had reared themselves with pride 
above us, now seemed almost levelled with the 
plain ; the principal mountains however lost little 
of their importance, and new ones rose at a greater 
distance. One of the Pikes of Langdale appeared 
in the horizon, but its figure so different from 
what it assumed on Windermere, that we should 
not, without being told, have recognized it. 

After half an hour's toil in this steep, we found 
ourselves upon a soft trackless turf of less acclivity 
by which our progress was greatly facilitated ; but 
though our elevation was prodigious, we were not 
permitted to be amused by prospects, for the 
clouds had enveloped us, and nearly prevented 



146 EXCURSION TO SKIDDAW. 

our seeing each other ; the effect of so dense a 
medium in increasing the apparent distance of 
objects was now so remarkable, that the judgment 
formed very erroneous conclusions respecting their 
magnitude — and I actually mistook a large old 
ram for a bull. There was nothing but the ground 
we trod on to engage our attention; and we found 
Empetrum nigrum, and various species of Ly co- 
podium and Vaccinium very abundant. 

Following a sheep walk, we slanted along the 
side of one of the rnammce of the mountain, and 
presently reached another, which we had no sooner 
gained than we halted, and proceeded to devour 
some meat, with which we had prudently stored 
our pockets. Nothing had ever tasted to our 
palates so exquisite; our limbs seemed to have 
lost the rigidity of fatigue, and our lungs to play 
with unusual freedom. 

Having finished our repast, we began to rumin- 
ate upon the peculiarity of our situation : we were 
lifted three thousand feet above the level of the 
sea ; but this immense height was of little avail 
to us — every thing below us was obscured by an 
impenetrable mist — the sun refused his cheering 
illumination, and gloom and silence reigned awfully 
around. We were now upon one end of a ridge 
which constitutes the highest part of the moun- 
tain : it is profusely strewed with fragments of 



EXCURSION TO SKIDDAW. 147 

clay slate; among these we found a botanical 
rarity, the salioo herbacea, which had fixed its 
roots in the scanty soil. 

Proceeding along this ridge, we unexpectedly 
heard the sound of human voices, and presently 
descried some men engaged in building a large 
pile of stones around a structure of timber thirty 
feet high, upon the very summit. They proved 
to be a party of Royal Engineers and Artillery- 
men, who had been encamped here for several 
days, employed in erecting an object to be observed 
in the Trigonometrical Survey; as the Command- 
ing Officer obligingly explained to us. Some 
philanthropic gentleman had caused a small cot 
to be constructed here for the accommodation of 
visitants, and on looking in we perceived that the 
men had spread their blankets on a little moss, 
and thus converted it into a temporary barrack. 

The mist at length became so attenuated, that 
the glorious orb of day appeared through it like a 
large full moon ; and in a moment the clouds 
opened and the north end of Bassenthwaite lake — 
with the variegated country around it — burst into 
view with the most astonishing brilliancy. We 
overlooked an extensive plain, spotted with houses, 
villages, and corn fields, extending to the Solway 
Firth, both shores of which were distinctly visible 
with their various indentations, and beyond it the 



148 EXCURSION TO SKIDDAW. 

mountains of Scotland melting gradually into mist. 
The town of Cockermouth seemed near us, and 
we could here and there trace the course of the 
Derwent as it made its way towards the ocean. 
We distinctly saw the Isle of Man with its bifid 
summit, and some vessels were observed putting 
out to sea from the ports of Workington and 
Whitehaven. Now a cloud, which had been 
hovering some time upon Saddleback, suddenly 
transferred itself to our mountain, and we were 
once more enveloped in vapour which shut the 
sun awhile from our view, but on its departure 
served only to supply us with new and uncommon 
effects ; for by the time we had begun to descend, 
the clouds again opened southward, and the lake 
of Derwentwater, with the glorious sunbeams 
playing upon its bosom as on a mirror, burst into 
view with the most ravishing beauty ! The basin 
of the lake appearing entire — -the mountains on its 
margin and in the more distant parts of Borrow- 
dale, mottled with refulgence, and others nearer 
to us slowly stripping themselves of their vapoury 
vestments — together constituted one of the most 
noble spectacles that mortal eye could behold. 
We had full leisure to survey it, for our progress 
downward was necessarily slow, especially as we 
deviated from the usual route, in order to visit 
one of the tt deep chasms that cut the mountain. 



EXCURSION TO SKIDDAW. 149 

When we had reached the bottom of this ghastly 
and tremendous hollow, we almost wondered at 
our own temerity in descending into it, so horridly 
steep were the yawning cliffs that enclosed us. 

This was not one of Flora's favourite haunts, 
for our only botanical acquisition was Saxifraga 
Stellaris, which glittered with the spray of a brawl- 
ing little torrent that leaped down a rocky channel 
hung with moss, through which the water oozed 
from the side of the mountain. But we were ten- 
fold repaid for this deviation by a prospect of the 
most fascinating kind, we were in a spot where 
two rocky side screens cut off all that was super- 
fluous in the landscape ; our vision was confined 
to a true painter's quantity — capable of being com- 
prehended at once by the eye ; but such an eyeful 
as we thought no mortal had ever been permitted 
to contemplate ! Beneath us the richly enamelled 
plain embellished in the most variable manner 
imaginable ; farms, cottages and mansions, some 
overlooking the landscape upon planted eminences, 
some embossomed in thickets, and others seated 
in the midst of smiling pastures all contributed 
to heighten the beauty of the diversified scene. 
The town of Keswick appeared in the best point 
of view ; beyond it the peaceful lake with all its 
bays and sinuosities, richly margined with wood, 
and its islands studding the watery area in the 



OCT 



150 ■ EXCURSION TO SKIDDAW. 

most pleasing manner ; while the whole was 
bounded by a superb arrangement of mountains, 
whose broad flanks were at this moment under the 
noble effects of light and shade, and whose outline 
curved into the most admirable variety of forms. 

It was not without regret that we ceased to gaze 
upon this superlative combination of beauty and 
magnificence ; but recollecting our engagements, 
we hurried on to Keswick, which we reached soon 
after nine ©"'clock ; and although we had taken a 
breakfast in the clouds we were fully ready^ for 
another at our inn. 



THE END. 



KO BT i. FO*T£K. S.IR.KBY LOSSDALJC, 






LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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